Archive for July, 2008

Know your breed

The amount of care that you’ll need to give your rabbit will vary according to breed and is often affected by breed type.

Think before you leap!
Before taking on a baby rabbit, especially a pedigree breed, ask questions about the size he will grow to and the daily care he needs. This will help you judge whether you can give them the time and effort they need to keep them fit, well and happy and that you have enough space for the amount of rabbits you have, or are planning, into adulthood.

Remember that all rabbits are individuals and yours won’t necessarily match the breed descriptions here exactly, even if he has a pedigree. But you may get some useful tips about his behaviour and the level of care he’s likely to need, for example, with grooming.

Breed groups
Size, weight, coat, colour and ear shape and size all vary widely from breed to breed but here are two main breed groups that your rabbit may belong to:
• fancy, and
• fur.

Within the fur breeds, Rex and Satin are two that came into being in the last century and are characterised by short, dense fur coats. Lop rabbits belong to the fancy breed group and have droopy ears that hang down the sides of their head instead of standing alert.

Size varies hugely as the smaller breeds such as the Netherlands Dwarf is as small as a guinea pig whereas, at the other end of the scale, the British Giant can weigh in at 5-7kg or more – that’s the size of a small Jack Russell Terrier!

Small breeds
Small breeds generally weigh in from around 1-2kg. The Netherlands Dwarf rabbit is one of the smallest rabbit breeds in existence, weighing in at only 1kg, and even fully-grown Dwarfs still look like babies, they are so dinky! There’s a range of colours and they have short, upright ears and a good, even temperament.

Other small breeds include the Mini Lop, a lop-eared variety that weighs 1.5kg and the Dwarf Lop whose ears come down to just below the chin and weighs slightly heavier at 2-2.5kg.

The Dutch is a popular small breed of rabbit and one of the oldest known, with a distinctive white collar around the shoulders and two matching coloured eye and ear patches. Its quiet disposition and compact size at 2-2.5kg makes it a popular choice with families.

Medium breeds
Generally between 2.5-4kg, these include the friendly but lively English and the fluffy Angora that has a long coat requiring daily grooming to avoid tangles and matting. In fact, an Angora produces up to 1kg of wool per year! The English has a characteristic butterfly-marked nose area, a narrow saddle of colour along the back, dark eye circles and other markings, and comes in five different colours.

The Rex and Satin breeds are good natured but not often kept as pets and belong, in the main, to the medium breeds group. Their popularity stems from their beautiful velvety dense fur.

Large breeds
Three breeds dominate this group: the English Lop, the French Lop and the (usually) white New Zealand, all weighing in at a whopping 4.5kg upwards. And there are a few giant breeds, such as the British Giant, and require serious strength when being lifted and handled!

The English and French Lops both have ears that droop down but the English Lop’s ears are so long, they drag on the floor and for this reason, tend to be bred as show rabbits only.

As any rabbit should be able to stand up on their hind legs in the hutch, special consideration also needs to be given to the size of accommodation if you’re considering a larger breed.
 

Hutch n’ stuff

Many rabbits live happily as indoor house pets like a cat or dog while others live equally happily in the garden, albeit protected by fencing to keep out predators. But most live in a purpose-built hutch in the garden (or house), with an outside run for use during the day.
Your rabbit is a sociable animal so he’ll also need plenty of company from you and/or another rabbit companion and won’t enjoy spending the majority of his time alone.

Whatever your circumstances, your rabbit needs a warm, dry and draught-free home for sleep and rest, with enough space to stretch out properly and plenty of stuff to nibble on at all times

Your rabbit’s home should have a ‘nesting’ area or bedroom that’s more private – usually with a solid door – and a living area with one end set aside for toileting, and the rest reserved for putting down the dried food and fresh veg.  A water bottle, plenty of hay in a rack and gnawing aid (for example, a bark-covered log) should be provided at all times. Putting dried food in a heavy ceramic bowl will help avoid it being tipped over.
The hutch should have feet so that it is off the ground and protected against draughts, with a pitched, waterproof roof sloping backwards and an overhang to avoid rain getting in. There are minimum dimensions depending on the breed and size of your rabbit.

Bedding
There’s a wide range of bedding available and much depends on what seems to suit your particular rabbit so it’s often a case of trial and error until you find one that suits you both. The ideal combination of layers is newspaper, then wood flakes and dust-extracted hay or straw on top, but safe alternatives include commercially available litters designed specifically for rabbits. Avoid cat litter as it can be abrasive underfoot and may cause foot sores.

Whichever sort of bedding you use, your rabbit still needs cleaning out completely two or three times a week and you should remove soiled and wet bedding daily to avoid attracting flies and increasing the risk of flystrike. It’s best to ‘muck out’ your rabbit when he’s not in residence as they are quite territorial creatures, so do it when he’s using the run or has been let out for some exercise. Once a week, use a weak solution
of bleach in water to scrub out the hutch but don’t renew the bedding until the interior is completely dry.

Free range rabbits
If you’re going to let your rabbit live freely in the garden, assess the vegetation, protect any delicate plants and trees with chicken wire and make sure your boundaries are secure. And expect digging – rabbits will tunnel under fences and lawns!

You’ll also need to provide a dry, warm shelter for the rabbits to use as their ‘bolt hole’ whenever the weather turns bad.

There are many plants that are poisonous to rabbits so check your garden’s contents before letting your rabbit out and, if in doubt about any plant, don’t let him eat it until you’ve checked on a more comprehensive list. The effect of eating such plants depends on many things including the actual amount consumed, the part eaten and the season. If necessary, move plants you believe to be harmful to a non-accessible part of the garden. Wild plants that are good for rabbits include dandelions, clover, chick-weed and goose grass (cleaver).

Grooming your rabbit
Your rabbit’s coat is made up of two layers: guard hairs underneath and an overcoat. In Angora and other long-haired breeds, the guard hairs can be as long as the overcoat which means daily brushing is essential to tease out any knots and avoid matting. Rescue centres are taking in an increasing number of long-haired rabbits that their owners have been unable to look after so think carefully before you take on a long-haired breed! When a rabbit’s coat becomes matted, they are at increased risk of problems like flystrike and fur balls. Long-haired breeds require clipping but this is a job for a specialist so don’t attempt it yourself.
If you have a short-haired rabbit, use a soft-bristled brush to brush out the coat a few times a week and simply increase the grooming at times when your rabbit is moulting his winter or summer coats in the spring and autumn).

House rabbits
According to the Rabbit Welfare Fund, a house rabbit displays more natural behaviour patterns than his hutch-kept counterpart and the extra exercise that a house rabbit gets means they’re less likely to suffer from skeletal problems. Any rabbit can be house-trained and adult rabbits can be easier to litter train than babies.
You’ll need to train your rabbit not to chew forbidden things around the home which takes time and effort, usually involving offering a more tasty alternative. Top of the safety list is covering electric cabling with tough, plastic piping and not leaving anything on the floor you don’t want chewed.
Most house rabbits have a cage in which they can stay when their owners are out and for sleeping in. This needs to be large enough for them as they become adults and situated away from draughts, direct sunlight and other heat sources.
Toilet training involves the use of a litter tray in one corner of the cage, getting the rabbit used to using the tray inside the cage and then gradually allowing him longer periods of time outside the cage.

Your rabbit needs enough room to stretch out on his side fully in both areas of the hutch and to stand up on his hind legs. Small rabbits require a hutch that is at least 90cms x 60cms x 45cms whereas a large breed needs 150cms x 60cms x 60cms. You should add 30cms in width for a second rabbit if you decide he needs a companion. If you’re thinking of keeping him indoors,there are minimum cage sizes, too, so check with whoever you’re buying the equipment from.

• Aloe vera
• Amaryllis
• Anemone
• Apple (seeds only)
• Apricot (all parts except the fruit)
• Asparagus fern
• Autumn crocus and crocus
• Azalea
• Bluebell
• Boxwood
• Bryony
• Buttercup
• Carnation
• Celandine
• Cherry tree
• Clematis
• Common privet
• Cowslip
• Cyclamen
• Daffodil
• Daisy
• Dogwood
• Elderberry
• Foxglove
• Geranium
• Gladiola
• Ground ivy
• Hemlock
• Henbane
• Holly
• Holly bindweed
• Horse chestnut
• Hyacinth
• Iris
• Laburnum
• Laurel
• Lily of the valley
• Listeria
• Lobelia
• Lupin
• Mistletoe
• Mushroom
• Nightshades
• Oak
• Oleander
• Parsnip
• Pear (seeds)
• Peony
• Poppy
• Primula
• Primrose
• Rhododendron
• Rhubarb
• Snowdrop
• Sweet pea
• Swiss cheese plant
• Toadflax
• Tomato (leaves, vines)
• Tulip
• Umbrella plant
• Violet
• Yew

How your vet can help

It’s a myth that rabbits don’t need much in the way of veterinary care as there are plenty of preventive measures that will help keep her healthy.

You and your vet
When you first get your rabbit, find someone who’s experienced in dealing with and treating health problems in ‘small furries’. Don’t make the mistake of waiting until your pet is ill as you’ll be forced into finding someone nearby, as opposed to someone with expertise in this area.

Each vet’s knowledge of dealing with rabbits will vary, as it will for other domestic pets. Practices often have one particular vet who specialises in the care of ‘small furries’ such as rabbits and guinea pigs so ask to see them.

General care
Once you’ve chosen a vet, your rabbit needs vaccinating against viral haemorrhagic disease (VMD) and myxomatosis. She will then require annual boosters which also provide the chance to reassess your rabbit’s health with the vet and make any changes to aspects of her routine care, such as her diet.

When you take your rabbit for her annual boosters, the vet will give her a quick check-over. He or she will be looking at the teeth and weighing her, observing if the eyes are clear and bright, her ears are clean and free from mites and feel up and down her body to check for lumps and bumps and for the general condition of her coat. There are several skin conditions as well as parasites that can affect your rabbit and early intervention and treatment is always best.

It’s a good time to chat to your vet about your rabbit’s condition and any behaviour that has been concerning you. You should also check that her current diet is correct for her weight, age and the condition of her teeth as some adjustments may need to be made.

Signs of illness
Get to know what’s normal for your rabbit and don’t hesitate to call the vet or vet nurse if you’ve spotted a symptom that’s worrying you or her behaviour has suddenly changed. It may be just a quick bit of advice that’s needed or an actual appointment but it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Diet and dental advice
Vets dealing with rabbits spend much of their time sorting out dental problems and this is usually down to the wrong diet. Rabbits need to chew for several hours a day to keep their teeth worn down as they never stop growing. That’s why you should make sure hay is available for your rabbit 24 hours a day and follow guideline limits on dry food carefully. A slim log with bark on is a good gnawing stick too!

Your vet checks your rabbit’s teeth by folding back the top lip and looking inside the mouth at the back teeth. It’s a good idea for you to learn how to check the teeth too, at least the front ones. If you don’t feel confident about this, ask your vet to show you the technique.

If the vet can’t get a good look but does suspect a dental problem, he or she may well suggest anaesthetising your rabbit so they can do a thorough examination. If necessary, they can then carry out some corrective dental work such as filing down the front teeth or extracting rotten ones. And remember, clipping teeth at home is not advised as you could break or shatter the teeth, causing more harm than good.

Rabbits and medication
If your vet recommends any medicine, such as eye or ear drops, they will show you how to administer this and may even suggest ways of holding your rabbit so it is more easily done. It’s important to follow your vet’s instructions carefully and complete any course of medication given.

Neuter now!
Unless you have a show rabbit, there’s no good reason to allow her to breed and, besides, rehoming centres are full of unwanted rabbits!
While neutering is a fairly major procedure in both males and female rabbits, the benefits far outweigh the temporary discomfort. In both sexes, it means less aggression or territorial behaviour and avoids cancer of the uterus which develops in up to 80% of female rabbits before five years old if left unspayed.

The op is done as a day-case procedure under general anaesthetic and is usually carried out at four to five months old in males, although it can be done as early as three months old. Females are usually spayed at five months old.

Vet checklist
• Get your rabbit used to being handled so she isn’t stressed by the vet check-ups.
• Learn to recognise your rabbit’s normal behaviour so you’ll know if something isn’t right.
• Check that your rabbit’s bottom is clean and dry twice a day.
• Note down symptoms to help your vet make a speedy diagnosis.
• Call the vet first if you are in doubt about the seriousness of symptoms, for advice about whether to bring in your rabbit.
• Don’t delay getting a suspected injury or illness checked out.
• Keep your vet’s number handy and make sure anyone looking after your rabbit has the details too.
 

A-Z of rabbit ailments

It’s worth knowing a little about the common conditions that can affect rabbits so you can spot symptoms early and seek veterinary help.

Abscess
Swellings or lumps which can sometimes burst and discharge thick creamy pus. Abscesses on the body may be caused by bites or injuries.  Unfortunately, because rabbit pus is so thick, the infection inside cannot be drained or treated just with antibiotics so the rabbit may require surgery to remove the infected material.

Jaw abscesses are a sign the rabbit is suffering from severe dental disease. They’re the result of tooth root infections and can affect the surrounding jaw bone and be very painful. The rabbit will need X-rays and major surgery to remove the infected tooth and bone.

Dental disease can be avoided in the first place by feeding your rabbit an appropriate diet.

Bloat
A very serious condition where the rabbit’s stomach and intestines become distended with gas. It happens because the intestines have slowed down or stopped working properly.

In young rabbits, bloating may be caused by a condition called ‘mucoid enteropathy’, where their bowels slow down, and they may pass a lot of mucus. There are various possible causes including parasites, bacterial infections and insufficient fibre in the diet.

Older rabbits may become bloated because of a digestive upset, especially if they are not getting enough fibre in their diet, but bloating can also be caused by a bowel obstruction. This is when the intestines become blocked with hair or foreign materials and requires an operation to relieve the obstruction.

Bloating in a rabbit of any age requires an immediate trip to the vet as it can be rapidly fatal without treatment. The treatment may be simply antibiotics, painkillers, intravenous fluids etc, or surgery may be required.

Coccidiosis
See Diarrhoea and Parasites, below.

Diarrhoea
True diarrhoea – where a rabbit passes liquid faeces – is a potentially serious condition and is most commonly seen in young rabbits, often around the time of coming home from the pet shop or breeder. The stress of increased handling and changes in environment and diet can make the rabbit susceptible to infections.

Coccidiosis, an infection by a small parasite, is another frequent cause of diarrhoea in young rabbits, but the problem can also be caused by bacterial or viral infections.

A rabbit with diarrhoea can quickly die from dehydration, so needs immediate veterinary treatment. Caecotrophs – dark, soft, sticky droppings – in the cage or stuck to the rabbit’s bottom – can be confused with diarrhoea. These droppings are normally eaten by the rabbit as soon as they are passed. However, if your rabbit has a sore mouth or is overweight, he may not be able to do this. He needs to see a vet who will check for these problems and may also clip the hair away to prevent soreness and flystrike.

E. cuniculi
A protozoan parasite which affects the rabbit’s kidneys and nervous system. The parasite is transmitted to rabbits via spores in infected urine (often mother to baby). Infection can lead to cataracts, paralysis, loss of balance, head tilt and kidney failure, but many rabbits carry the parasite without ever becoming ill. If your rabbit shows any of the above symptoms, he needs to see a vet who may prescribe medication or take a blood sample for analysis to try and confirm the condition.

GI stasis
This is where the rabbit’s bowel slows down or stops working so that food is no longer moving through. The stomach and intestines become bloated with gas which is uncomfortable for the rabbit who will stop eating, be less active and stop producing droppings. GI stasis can be caused by not enough hay in the diet but also by being unwell, in pain or after a recent anaesthetic. Contact your vet immediately if your rabbit stops eating or producing droppings.

Kidney disease
Kidney disease in the rabbit can have a variety of causes including E.cuniculi, a very high calcium diet (for instance, from over-supplementation with minerals) and stones in the kidney or ureter. It’s potentially very serious and can result in weight loss and reduced appetite, along with incontinence, soiling of the bottom area and increased thirst. Your vet may need to do X-rays and blood tests for a diagnosis. Rabbits can also get bladder stones or other urinary problems that cause incontinence and urine scalding round the bottom area. An operation may be necessary to remove any kidney stones and, if the rabbit’s bottom is soaked with urine, the vet may clip the hair away to prevent soreness and flystrike.
Parasites
• Coccidia – these tiny parasites can cause damage to the liver or intestines resulting in diarrhoea, weight loss or liver failure. Most commonly found in baby rabbits around 6-8 weeks old.
Treatment: sulpha drugs should get rid of the infestation.
• Ear mites – minuscule mites which can infest the rabbit’s ears causing irritation, head shaking and scratching. The characteristic brown flaky crusts in the rabbit’s ears are usually easy to spot. Treatment: a course of two or three anti-parasitic injections at intervals of 10-14 days. Never use dog or cat ear drops as they’re not suitable for rabbits and may even be harmful.
• Fleas – either the adult fleas themselves or their dark dirt may be found in the rabbit’s coat. They can easily be caught from cats, dogs or other rabbits. Treatment: ask your vet for a ‘spot-on’ treatment to eradicate the problem and treat the hutch/bed with a suitable insecticide to get rid of the flea larvae and their eggs.
• Lice – these are just about visible to the naked eye, or you may spot the egg cases attached to hairs. Treatment: ask your vet as there are several treatment options.
• Fur mites – there are two main types of mite which can live in the rabbit’s coat, both are tiny and only just visible to the naked eye. The most common is called ‘cheyletiella’. Small numbers of mites may be present without any obvious signs but problems arise when the rabbit can’t groom himself properly, for instance, because of dental problems or arthritis. In this situation, the numbers of mites can build up, leading to irritation of the skin, hair loss and dandruff, particularly in between the shoulder blades, where it is most difficult for the rabbit to reach. Treatment: a course of two or three anti-parasitic injections at 10-14 day intervals.
• Tapeworms – your rabbit can unknowingly ingest tape worm eggs from grass that has been contaminated by dog, cat or fox faeces. These tapeworms can form cysts internally which may cause health problems, so prevent access – keep dogs and cats out of the area where your rabbit grazes so he cannot become infected. Treatment: your vet can recommend a worming preparation.

Pododermatitis
Otherwise known as ’sore hocks’, this condition can be very serious and painful for the rabbit. It results from the animal spending too much of their time on hard surfaces, which leads to pressure sores on the underside of the feet, especially if the rabbit is overweight.

Rabbits are designed to hop around on grass which, by letting the nails sink into it, takes the pressure off the back part of the feet. Surfaces like concrete or even the wooden floor of the hutch can be too hard and cause these pressure sores to develop.

The condition can be prevented by allowing your rabbit plenty of exercise on soft surfaces such as grass, keeping him slim and making sure that the hutch has plenty of bedding which is clean and dry. If sores do develop, see the vet.

Runny eyes
Usually caused by blocked tear ducts and are a common sign of dental disease in rabbits. The tear duct is the small tube which drains the rabbit’s tears away from his eyes. It runs very close to the tooth roots in the skull, and when these are too long (because of dental disease), they can become narrow or completely block the duct, causing tears to stream down the face and leading to infection. If your rabbit has runny eyes, your vet will check his teeth and may be able to flush out the tear duct under a local or general anaesthetic.

Snuffles
This is a common problem caused by a bacterial infection of the nasal sinuses. A variety of bacteria including pasteurella and staphylococcus can be involved, and infection leads to sneezing, snuffly breathing and pus round the nostrils. It might not seem serious but having a blocked nose can be very problematic for a rabbit as he can’t breathe well through his mouth. Take him to your vet, who can treat the infection with antibiotics, although the condition is likely to keep recurring.

Teeth problems
Dental disease is very common in rabbits and is caused by poor diet. The signs can start from as early as six months old and include overgrown incisors, runny eyes, weight loss, drooling, reduction in appetite, poor coat, dirty bottom and even abscesses around the face. If you can see overgrown teeth or suspect your rabbit may be suffering from dental disease, take him to your vet who can shorten the incisors using a special dental burr or file. He or she may need to sedate your rabbit to examine and file down the back teeth. To avoid dental disease, make sure your rabbit eats plenty of grass and hay every day.

Urinary problems
Soreness or wetness around the bottom area, incontinence, and pain on urination are all signs that your rabbit may be suffering from a urinary problem. It may be caused by stones in the bladder or urethra, an infection or ‘sludging’ of calcium deposits in the bladder, which can be the result of over supplementation of minerals in the diet. If you suspect your rabbit is suffering from a urinary problem, take him to your vet, who may need to X-ray the bladder to check for stones and flush out the bladder to remove sludge. If stones are diagnosed, your rabbit may need an op to remove them. If the skin is sore, your vet may need to clip away the fur to prevent wetness and flystrike.

Uterine cancer
Sadly, this is very common in unneutered female rabbits and the early signs include blood in the urine followed by steady weight loss. The best treatment is spaying in the early stages of the disease but, better still, prevent it happening in the first place by spaying your rabbit at around five months old.
 

10 fun facts about rabbits

Ever wondered why your rabbit chews all the time or drums his feet on the ground… read on!

Ear,ear
The size of your rabbit’s ears compared to his body tells you that his hearing is a vital sense in detecting approaching predators and dangers.

Breed basics
There are more than 200 breeds of rabbit but the largest is the British Giant, weighing in at 7kgs or more.

Greener than green
Rabbits are herbivores and grass is their favourite food. They need hours of nibbling time every day to keep their teeth short so they don’t over-grow.

Question of taste
With almost twice as many tastebuds as us humans, rabbits have a surprisingly sophisticated sense of taste.

Natural rhythms
Your rabbit likes to be active at dawn and dusk and quiet during the day which mimics the behaviour of his wild cousins.

Baby, baby
Young rabbits are called ‘kits’ and shouldn’t be weaned from their mother’s milk until around four-six weeks old.

Two’s company
Sociable but territorial animals, the best combination for two rabbits living together is a spayed female and a neutered male.

Home, sweet home
In the wild, your rabbit would live in ‘warrens’, tunnels that inter-connect, with a living room called the ‘kettle’ and nesting chambers.

Staying ahead
Your vet will recommend neutering your rabbit before he or she reaches sexual maturity at around seven months old so this is why the op is usually done at around four-five months old in both sexes.

Talk to me!
Your rabbit uses a surprisingly wide range of verbal and non-verbal communication, such as growling when being aggressive and drumming his hind feet on the ground when worried.
 

Criminals target rare and expensive dogs

Latest from the Buddies Pet Insurance news team … The animal charity Lost Dogs claims that gangs are increasingly turning to knives or guns to threaten owners in order to steal rare or expensive dogs. A spokesperson, Jane Hayes, said that stealing pets had become a common option for criminal gangs. “There are two types of dog thief,” she said, “you’ve got your professionals who travel the country after working dogs, lurchers, terriers, labradors, but the biggest increase lately is in the inner city where it’s basically for drug money. They see a dog tied up outside a shop, walk off with it and then go round the corner to a pub where it cam be sold for £20 or £30. Unfortunately these people are getting more and more violent. They are desperate for money and attack owners at knifepoint in parks and in daylight.” She urged police forces to take dog thefts more seriously.

Rabbit Guide

10 fun facts about rabbits
A-Z of rabbit ailments
How your vet can help
Hutch n stuff
Know your breed
Preventative care
Understand your rabbit
Your rabbit’s diet

Beware of feeding chocolate to dogs

Latest from the Buddies Pet Insurance news team… What are the most common toxins that kill dogs? Here is the list according to the Veterinary Poisons Information Service – rat poison with 1,283 cases in 2007, chocolate (1,166), Ibuprofen (710), paracetamol (414), oral contraceptives (334), grapes, raisins, sultanas (224).The number of dogs killed by eating chocolate rose by 48 per cent over the previous year. The food contains theobromine, a stimulant found in the cocoa bean which affects the central nervous system as well as the heart muscle. The service, which advises vets, has seen an increase of 91 per cent in dogs becoming sick after eating grapes, raisins or sultanas. Toxins from fruit can cause renal failure in animals and in some cases small dogs have died after eating as few as four grapes. Vets believe that many owners have fed their pets food such as cake and biscuits containing chocolate or grapes as treats, while in other cases the animals have helped themselves. A total of 17,000 cases of poisoned cats and dogs were reported last year – up 20 percent on the previous 12 months.


 

Dogs dinner

Latest from the Buddies Pet Insurance news team… A restaurant that welcomes the whole family – including the dog - is The Tempest in Christchurch, Dorset. There is a menu especially for canines. This probably represents the face of future dining as the economy tightens and the leisure industry scrabbles for new ways of luring customers through the door. Why shouldn’t dog-power become a culinary force? Restaurateur Alison Ferhi states: “We recently decided to welcome the whole family and it occurred to me that the whole family includes the dog. We have a child’s menu so why not have one for dogs as well?” There is chicken pieces with rice, vegetables and reduced-stock gravy, garnished with dog biscuits, £5; tuna chunks served with all the above, £5; or, for the discerning dog with ethical tastes, a vegetarian option at £3 - rice, cheese and cream sauce, vegetables and cheese nuggets. Chef Lak Ferhi, husband of Alison, has a dog himself so knows what pooches like “For the dog, I spray the food with oil - you don’t want it too oily - seal the food on the top, then put it in the oven, then use the juice to make a stock which I reduce, then add carrots, rice, biscuits. It is a treat. Alison adds:” Normally, of course, our dogs eat on the floor, on a lead, and are restricted to certain areas.” She says the idea is very popular, partly because people don’t like leaving their pets at home but also because they simply want to treat the animals.

Smaller dogs more aggressive

Latest from the Buddies Pet Insurance news team … It’s not the pit bulls, Rottweilers or Rhodesian Ridgebacks that cause the problems – the most dangerous breed is the Dachshund.  They topped the list of 33 breeds in the United States which were rated for their aggression, after academics analysed the behaviour of thousands of dogs. The research found that one in five Dachshunds have bitten or tried to bite strangers and a similar number have attacked other dogs – with one in 12 have having snapped at their owners. Chihuahuas, an even smaller breed, were the second most hostile regularly snapping or attempting to bite strangers, family or other dogs. Another small favourite, the Jack Russell, was third. The finding has been contradicted in the UK. Chris Moore secretary of the Northern Dachshund Association said: “As far as breeders in the UK are concerned, this is rubbish. It’s not the dogs’ nature. I have never been bitten in 25 years.”