Archive for May, 2008

Now your dog is becoming an adult, it’s important he knows who is pack leader and that this is continually reinforced. Use our simple techniques, below, to help your dog find his place in the family…

Types of aggression in dogs

• Dominance – often directed against family members and giving rise to the well known phrase ‘biting the hand that feeds you’. Dogs can become very territorial on their home turf and come to see themselves as top dog or pack leader: able to come and go as they please without being challenged.

• Fear – some dogs learn to use aggression as a form of defence, for example, against a stranger, or in a situation that frightens them. Early socialisation with a variety of people will help your dog adapt to new people and new situations without being afraid.

• Jealousy – this is fairly common between a resident dog and a newcomer but giving separate toys, equal attention and avoiding bones should all help. Some dogs also become attached to their main carer and jealously guard them, even from other members of the family.

• Maternal – a bitch will defend her pups if she thinks they are in danger but early socialisation with lots of different people and giving the new mum plenty of peace and quiet should help avoid this.

• Sex related – some bitches can become aggressive when they’re in season (twice a year) and this is related to hormone surges. Unneutered males may also display hormone-related aggression at any time and this is why vets often suggest castration as a possible treatment.

• Male to male – male dogs fight to impose their sexual dominance. If your dog is aggressive towards other dogs, you need professional training advice but, in the meantime, carry a water pistol and give him a squirt if necessary. Also use avoidance techniques so your dog is more interested in you, a treat or a favourite toy when other dogs walk past.

•Predatory – certain breeds are genetically programmed to chase and kill. For example, the Greyhound is a ‘sighthound’ that hunts using its excellent vision or the Jack Russell Terrier that loves to flush out rats and rabbits.

• Territorial – anyone who’s ever watched a seemingly placid dog turn into a snarling beast while in a car will have no doubt about a dog’s ability to defend its turf and the smaller the space, the more confident the dog may feel.

• Object related – guarding objects, especially food, bones and favourite toys, is a common problem in the home which can eventually lead to the dog being put down if the situation becomes unmanageable. In any case, children should be taught not to put their hands or faces near a dog that’s prone to this sort of behaviour, especially when they’re eating, often the worst situation for this sort of aggression.

Ways to sort aggression

• Get your dog used to being handled routinely by all the members of your family, not just you or her main carer. Groom her daily, if only for a few minutes, to get her used to being handled and touched all over her body, paying particular attention to her paws, ears and mouth. Turn her round so she gets used to being repositioned and moved – this will come in handy at the vets.

• Help your dog to understand his ‘lower than humans’ ranking by using subtle signs:
– you eat first, then feed the dog afterwards
– stop your dog going through doors, gates or up the stairs (if allowed) first
– ignore attention-seeking behaviour, such as jumping up, if talking to another member of the family or a visitor.
– ask your dog to sit nicely before putting down her food.

• Use your posture, facial expressions and voice to speak powerfully (but not shout) to your dog when she’s done something wrong and this will help her understand that you are the pack leader. Dogs are excellent interpreters of body language in humans as well as their own species.

• Try using ‘aversion therapy’ to stamp out any developing aggressive tendencies. For example, use a water pistol to stop her chasing visitors, cyclists or joggers, being aggressive towards other dogs or defending a particular territory, toy or food.

• Exchange food treats for an item that’s being guarded and if she seems to become persistently possessive about a particular object, take it away permanently.

• If you have a male dog that is prone to be aggressive with other male dogs, consider getting him castrated as this will help reduce his bolshy tendencies as well as reduce his desire to wander. 

A word from the vet
Don’t take any chances with a dog that bites – seek professional help straightaway.

Glossary
Neutering – a routine operation to stop a dog being able to make a female pregnant or to stop a bitch from ever conceiving puppies. Male dogs are castrated, that is, they have their testes removed while a bitch will have the uterus and ovaries removed.

Use our 8-point plan to help your dog avoid becoming distressed or bored – a common problem – when she’s on her own.
Why it happens 

Dogs are sociable animals and don’t like to be left alone for long periods of time. They are a ‘pack’ animal and used to being with others, most, if not all of the time which presents problems in modern households where everyone is busy and there are many activities that take us outside of the home. However, it’s our responsibility as pet owners to make provisions for our pets when we can’t be there, for example, by hiring a professional dog walker or using dog daycare, especially if we cannot resolve their separation anxiety with the suggested action plan, below.

What happens  Boredom leads to anxiety and this, in turn, makes the dog become creative in order to fill in their time on their own. This can mean anything from chewing doors, wallpaper, rugs, clothing and furniture to behaviours like howling, barking, whining or even licking themselves excessively, which can lead to skin problems. The important thing to remember is that your dog isn’t doing this to be ‘destructive’, she’s just trying to find ways to comfort herself, to fill in the time or to try and make contact with you.

8-point action plan
1 Buy some kongs and pack them with tasty treats that will escape when she plays with them. One pet company has cleverly come up with a machine that releases kongs periodically throughout the day on a timer.
2 Try to build up the amount of time you are away from your dog very gradually and never leave her on her own all day.
3 Keep your departures low key so the dog doesn’t connect comings and goings with excitement and distress. Leave a radio on quietly to mask outside noises and provide some comfort.
4 Take your dog out for a vigorous walk and feed her before leaving the house as this should make her feel sleepy.
5 When getting ready to leave, vary the routine so your dog doesn’t pick up on what’s about to happen or distract her with a new bone or chew toy. Leave down toys and chews to keep her busy anyway.
6 Don’t attempt to punish your dog for her behaviour resulting from separation anxiety as this will only increase her stress levels and is simply cruel as it’s not her fault.
7 If you know you have to be away for an extended period, ask someone to come in and sit with her for a short while or hire a dog walker.
8 If all of the above don’t help, consult a professional dog behaviourist.

A word from the vet
Ask your vet about the new pheromone treatments that can be used to calm down stressed dogs while you’re about and about.

Glossary
kong – a hollow, cone-shaped rubber toy that bounces unevenly. The hollow inside can be stuffed with treats that will fall out when licked, gnawed and pushed around the floor.

As your puppy grows into adulthood, you’ll need to understand his changing needs so read on…

Teenage troubles  Dogs go through adolescence between nine to 18 months old, usually the latter end of this scale in the bigger breeds. As a puppy, your dog had a strong sense of needing to fit in and follow your lead but gradually, he starts to think more for himself and test his independence, as a human teenager does, too. One particular breed, the Boxer, stays in this teenage phase for three years and not surprisingly, a lot of dogs taken in by animals shelters for supposed ‘behaviour problems’ are in this more challenging age group!

Exercise to suit  Don’t over-exercise your young dog – wait until adolescence at around 12-15 months old before stepping up any exercise routine with your dog. (Remember, bigger breeds mature later). Certain breeds also require less exercise or more frequent, short walks… if in doubt, check with your vet or the relevant breeder.

Bark alert  Dogs use barking for a whole host of reasons, not just as a warning or alert signal. They bark when they want to say something, to say hello, to defend their territory, when they’re frustrated and when they hear other dogs barking. Certain breeds such as Yorkshire Terriers are known as ‘barkers’ and it’s harder to decrease their barking frequency!

No training time limit  If your dog goes back to bad habits or develops new ones, don’t worry as you can retrain him at any stage throughout his life. Simply go back to basic obedience and make sure your dog understands all the basic commands such as sit, stay and down, and reinforce them daily.

Neuter now  Experts say that a dog’s future personality is set at the time when he or she is neutered so if you like your pooch’s temperament at puberty, there’s no reason not to get him neutered straightaway. Neutering can be done at any stage but earlier is considered better for the long-term health and behaviour of your dog.

Banish boredom  A dog who is left alone for a long period will find ways to amuse himself that are not necessarily sociable, for example, by chewing furniture, digging and other destructive behaviour. Remember that it’s your responsibility to provide him with the toys and environment in which he’ll be comfortable when you’re out and about and try not to leave him for long periods without human company.

Watch the food intake  Your dog’s nutritional needs increase as he grows up and becomes more active, then decrease again into old age as he slows down again. Be guided by his weight, the amount of exercise he has and his overall build as some breeds, such as labrador retrievers, have a tendency to put on weight easily.

Banish biting  Puppies rarely bite intentionally until seven months old or more but they do play bite and chew due to teething. If your dog carries on biting into adulthood or shows serious signs of aggression towards humans or other dogs, get advice quickly from your vet, a professional dog trainer or training club.

Rules is rules  You should have established some house rules for your dog by now – something they need from puppyhood – but you must reinforce them at all times and be consistent. It’s no use letting your dog upstairs on the bed on a Sunday morning but shouting at him for it the rest of the week.

Glossary
Neutering – a routine operation to stop a dog being able to make a female pregnant or to stop a bitch from ever conceiving puppies. Male dogs are castrated, that is, they have their testes removed while a bitch will have the uterus and ovaries removed.

If you can help your dog master some basic walking skills, your time out and about together will be much more enjoyable… and safer too!

Why train  No dog knows instinctively how to behave well while out on a walk, they have to be taught. Common problems include pulling on the lead, barking at other dogs and not coming back if let off the lead. All of these things can be stressful for you and some may lead to conflict and danger. As a young adult, your dog wants to do his own thing, to explore and seek out new smells and interesting things at his own pace and this will rarely be the speed that you would choose to go! It’s important, too, for safety as a dog that won’t come back when called could end up the victim of a road accident or wind up somewhere dangerous, for example, on the edge of a quarry or in a fast-flowing river.

Equipment to use There are various collar and lead combinations, several of which are good for training dogs who tend to pull on their lead:
• the head collar – a very effective collar for dogs that pull on their lead. The lead clips to a ring just under the jaw so if the dog pulls, the harness will pull his head down and in to his chest which is no fun at all, so he stops pulling in order to keep his head up.
• the body harness – fits around the dog’s legs and chest and the lead attaches at the back between the shoulder blades. This avoids pressure on the neck so is good for dogs with delicate necks and/or windpipes and small head/thick necked breeds such as the bulldog.
• choker chains – easy to put on wrong in which case the chain will tighten up when the dog pulls on the lead but not release again, maintaining pressure on his neck. A good alternative is the ‘half-check collar’ which has a ‘choker’ section in the collar so it still tightens up but to a lesser extent and releases more easily when the dog eases back on his leash.
• leads – don’t use an extendable lead while training because this will just encourage your dog to pull ahead of you. Use a single-length leash of around 4-6 foot depending on the size of your dog and make sure it’s strong enough for the job if you have a strong breed such as a Boxer or Labrador Retriever.

A word from the vet
Start any new training indoors and in the back garden where there are far less distractions for your dog.

Pulling on the lead  Keep tasty food treats available (unlike any he’s offered at home so there’s a novelty factor) and show your dog you have them in your hand. Keep your walks straight and short at first, with a good, quick pace so he has less time to pick up the scent of something he wants to investigate. Lure him with the treats and offer one every time he walks nicely. Stop dead in your tracks when he starts to pull and once you’ve got his attention, set off again. Repeat the process many times on each walk so he starts to get the hang of things. More resistant dogs may need a jerk back when they pull but offer a treat if they then drop back to your side.

Barking at other dogs  If your dog likes to bark at approaching dogs on a walk, distract him with a special treat before he begins to bark. Show him the treats right in front of his nose and encourage him to nibble at your hand while you pass the other dog and owner. Some dogs do better if you ask them to sit while the other dog goes past but always reward him afterwards for not barking.

Leave it  This is a very useful command when out walking as it means you can stop your dog eating decomposing animal carcasses or discarded fast food. Use aversion therapy to offer a treat, then tap the underside of the jaw so that it closes before he has had the chance to eat it and say ‘leave it’. Do this several times over several days, praising him verbally when he backs away from the treat on your command… but don’t offer the treat afterwards or you’ll undo all your good work!

Recall command  A must if you want to be able to let your dog off for a run in a safe but open air environment and be sure he’ll come back to you when you want him to. It’s also vital for suddenly dangerous situations, for example, if he escapes onto a main road. There’s no short cut to recall training, you simply have to reinforce it again and again. If your dog is seriously unreliable, you might want to try putting him on an extending leash at first. That way you can call him with the simple ‘Come’ command, then reel him in if he doesn’t respond and start again. Remember, you’re aiming to get your dog to respond to your first command of ‘Come’, not the third or fourth or tenth! Remember to praise your dog lavishly when he does come to you and resist the urge to tell him off if you end up having to chase and catch him as your dog may start to fear you instead. Finally, there are collars you can use to interrupt your dog’s adventure, for example, by spraying him suddenly with a mist of water, which pulls him up sharp and reminds him to come back to you.

SummaryÂ
• Tire your dog out with games in the back garden to get rid of excess energy before attempting training walks.
• Use tasty treats that he hasn’t had before on walks.
• If your dog is a persistent lead-puller, invest in a head halter
• Start with familiar environments and progress on to places where there are more distractions, such as people, other dogs, traffic etc.
• If you get encounter training problems or your dog seems resistant to your methods, consider joining a dog training class or getting some one-to-one help.

Cross references
walk – refer to Walking your dog (Puppy section)
taught – cross refer to Basic obedience and socialization skills (Puppy)
dog training class – cross refer to Company of Animals and institute of Professional Dog Trainers in Pet directory
collars – refer to Company of Animals, Pet directory

If you haven’t had your dog or bitch neutered, why not? Unless you’re going to breed, the health benefits far outweigh any temporary discomfort after the op.

Why neuter?  Too many dogs end up homeless and waiting for new homes at animal shelters so unless you have a very good reason for breeding, for example, if you have a pedigree show dog, there’s no reason not to neuter your dog or bitch. The health benefits are indisputable: lower risk of breast cancer and pyometra in bitches and in males, a reduction in the risk of various prostate diseases, as well as reducing aggressive tendencies towards other dogs and the desire to roam.

When to do it  Most vets recommend doing the op at around six months old just before puberty and it freezes the dog’s personality at that moment in time so if you like your dog at six months old, have the op done then! However, there’s no reason why you can’t have an older dog neutered, for example, if you have a bitch that’s already had one litter. The op can’t be done when a bitch is in heat so ask your vet about the best time to do it.

Males  Technically known as ‘castration’, this is a minor day case op under general anaesthetic where a small incision is made in front of the scrotum through which the testicles are removed. Any stitches are removed within 10 days and the dog should appear as normal in a few days.

VERY IMPORTANT PET POINT
Spaying may make a dominant bitch even more dominant
so check with your vet if she has this sort of personality.

Bitches  “Spaying’ is a more major operation but nevertheless is still carried out on a day-patient basis, under a general anaesthetic. The vet will remove the uterus and both ovaries through an incision in the tummy and there will be stitches that need removing around 10 days later as well as internal stitches that will dissolve naturally on their own.

Recovery  The vast majority of dogs and bitches are well recovered within a week of their op but will require plenty of rest and gentle exercise initially. Be guided by your vet as to what to do and when, including advice about feeding after you bring them home. Look out for signs of infection in the stitches and avoid the dog worrying the wound by making him or her wear an Elizabethan collar.

Glossary
Pyometra – pus-filled womb or uterus
Scrotum – the sac of skin holding the testicles
Puberty – the process of sexual maturing, triggered by hormonal changes
In heat – twice a year in mature females when they bleed and come into season, being sexually active for a couple of weeks.
Prostate – the gland that produces secretions to make up sperm, situated near to the bladder.
Elizabethan collar – a plastic cone-shaped ruff worn round the neck that prevents the dog nibbling or licking any part of their body or paws.

Are you having problems with housetraining or is your dog trained but having accidents? Follow our simple steps to get back on track again.

1. Clean up

Clean all areas where your dog has soiled inside the home, using odour and stain-removing products that contain enzymes to remove all traces of the smell. This will discourage them from using the same spot again.

2 Take her outside
Once an hour during the day, first thing in the morning and last thing at night, take your dog outside to an area of the garden you’ve set aside for toileting and let her run up and down and sniff the area. Even better, put down some of her faeces or soiled newspaper so she gets the scent and starts to associate the area with toileting. Wait at least five minutes for her to go and use a verbal command such as ‘wees and poos’ so that she starts to connect the act with the command. if she goes outside, praise her enthusiastically, offering a small treat if necessary.

3 Confine her when unsupervised

When you can’t supervise her, you need to go out somewhere or during the night, confine her to bed in a small area, for example, by using a cage (if she’s never been in one, you’ll need to get her used to it first, by building up the amount of time she spends in it). Dogs rarely soil their own beds so it will prevent her from ‘going’ in the house when you can’t be there to take her out frequently. But don’t confine her for long periods during the day if at all possible.

4 If she starts to go

Specific signals that a dog is about to urinate or poo include running to the door, whining, restlessness, circling or sniffing the floor. Take her outside immediately to the chosen place and praise her with a treat or favourite toy. Wait until she’s done her business and praise her again.

5 Dealing with mess

Scolding your dog after the incident won’t mean anything to her. Essentially, any accidents are your fault as it means you weren’t supervising closely enough. You need to keep this close supervision up for about two weeks, when you can gradually lengthen the amount of time between toilet breaks. If you catch your dog in the act, say ‘No’ sharply and put her outside quickly, again, praising her if she finishes off her business outside.

BOX
When to expect lapses…
• When another pet arrives
• Change of primary carer
• Sudden household activity eg party
• Reaching sexual maturity (six-18 months, depending on breed)
• Emotional upset in the family
• If she develops a medical problem eg urinary infection (see the vet if none of the above apply)

6 Coping at night

 Put your dog’s bed near your bedroom so you can hear if she becomes restless or whines to go out. Then you can put her outside, avoiding the possibility that she might mess in her bed (not a good habit to start!). Remember, you should only need to do this for a couple of weeks!

7 Leaving her on her own

Don’t confine your dog to her bed if you’re going out for more than two hours as it’s unfair to make her wait that long for the loo and she could end up soiling her bed, a habit not to be encouraged. Instead, put training pads and/or newspaper down in one area for her to use if necessary and don’t scold her if she does then use them!

Glossary
Training pad – an absorbent, waterproof-backed sheet that can be laid on the floor for your dog to wee on and thrown away after use. Available through pet stores and some vets.
Cage – a self-contained pet cage with a wipe-clean base that can be used as a safe sleeping area for your puppy. Available through pet stores in various sizes to suit different size breeds. Can also be used to transport dogs safely in cars when travelling.

The ageing process poses specific challenges for senior dogs but there’s lots you can do to keep him in the best health possible.

Keep on top of things 

Older dogs need a little bit more monitoring in terms of their daily care and attention. Try to check the coat for lumps and bumps once a week and make sure you keep up the teeth cleaning – at least three times a week. Take your dog for a six-monthly check-up, in between the annual boosters, so that any potential problems can be picked up by the vet and acted on quickly. Never assume that changes of behaviour or temperament are just the result of ageing… there could be something wrong that can be treated.

Arthritis 

As with us humans, arthritis is a more common problem in old age and most senior dogs suffer with stiff joints, especially after exercise. Arthritis is an inflammation of the joints that causes pain. Some larger breeds such as Retrievers are far more prone to major joint wear problems such as hip dysplasia, something that needs specialist advice, treatment and possibly surgery to resolve. For most cases of arthritis, the vet will prescribe various types of anti-inflammatory drugs, either in liquid or tablet form, and may also recommend food supplements such as fish oil and combined glucosamine and chondroitin that can all help to reduce pain in your dog’s joints.

Anything I can do? 

Keep up daily exercise and massage joints after walks and sleep but consider changing the routine so your dog has more frequent but shorter walks instead. If your dog is overweight, work at bringing this down to reduce pressure on his skeleton and joints.

Deafness 

It’s just not practical to fit a dog with a hearing aid so you’ll simply have to compensate if you realise that your canine companion is going deaf. You may think that he’s just ignoring you but will quickly realise that this is part of the process of going deaf which happens gradually.
Anything I can do?  Try to teach some simple hand signals while he can still hear and be more conscious of safety and hazards in general, for example, remember that he can’t hear a car approaching.

Dental disease 

The vet will check the mouth at every routine check-up and, if really necessary, suggest carrying out a scale and polish under general anaesthetic.
Anything I can do?  Brush your dog’s teeth three times a week and check the mouth for signs of gum inflammation and tooth decay. Offer dental chews to keep the teeth clean.

Diabetes 

More common in bitches, early signs are increased drinking and urination although these can be symptoms of other problems too. It’s worth mentioning any such change in behaviour to the vet so that he can suggest follow-up tests. Diabetes in dogs can be controlled with insulin injections, just as it can in humans, but this requires patience and dedication on the owner’s part.
Anything I can do?  Your vet may suggest various measures eg putting the dog on a special diet and trying to reduce any excess weight as well as medication.

Heart disease 

Some breeds are more likely to develop heart problems and in any case, heart disease is a common problem in older dogs as in humans. Heart murmurs may be picked up by the vet while listening with his stethoscope during a routine exam. Various medications are available, depending on the specific type of heart problem.
Anything I can do?  Try to reduce your dog’s weight if he’s over the limit for his particular breed and discuss what exercise and diet is appropriate for your dog’s age, condition and type of heart problem.

Incontinence 

Older dogs, particularly bitches, can be prone to leak urine while asleep or lying down. This is because the muscles holding the urethra shut slacken with age.
Anything I can do?  If it’s becoming a nuisance, see your vet as there are medications available that increase muscle tone again.

Kidney disease 

Early signs include increased drinking and urination, and the development of a pot-bellied appearance as for diabetes so see your vet if you notice such symptoms. A blood test can be done to confirm if it is a kidney problem and medications are available, plus low-sodium and low protein diets.

Loss of vision  Cloudy vision can mean developing cataracts but more commonly will be caused by sclerosis where tissue clouds the lens, causing diminished eyesight. You may notice your dog bumping into things or judging distances less well, for example, climbing up stairs or steps as well as being slower on walks and generally a bit more insecure. Most vets can refer your dog to a specialist ophthalmic vet for a clear diagnosis and treatment may be with medication or in the case of cataracts, they can be operated on.
Anything I can do?  See your vet if you suspect an eye problem or can see the start of clouding in the lens.

Lumps and bumps  Cancer is the number one cause of death in dogs but many lumps can be completely harmless. A lot of dogs grow benign cysts and warts on their skin and your vet can send away a tissue sample if necessary to rule out cancer. Be guided by your vet as to the best course of action if cancer is confirmed.
Anything I can do?  Get into the habit of checking your dog’s body and skin for lumps and bumps regularly, especially as this will help you detect external parasites too.

Glossary
hip dysplasia – badly formed hip joints that don’t work effectively and so wear down unevenly, causing inflammation and pain.
cataracts – the lens of the eye gradually becomes less transparent, causing it to cloud over, due to changes in the delicate protein fibres within the lens, similar to the changes that occur in cooked egg whites.
ophthalmic – concerned with the eye and treatment of the disorders that affect it.
cysts – blocked sebaceous glands on the skin’s surface.

It’s never too late to get into good habits or correct bad ones that may have already sneaked into your dog’s daily routine!

Diet

Whether you use wet or dry food or a combination of the two, you’ll need to change your dog’s diet over to an ‘adult’ formula from a ‘growth’ formula: follow the manufacturer’s age guidelines or check with your vet. ‘Growth’ diets are specifically for puppies and give the extra vitamins and minerals he needed while growing rapidly as a puppy. Adult formulas still contain the right balance of protein, fat and carbohydrate to maintain a healthy weight and fitness.

Remember that, if you are changing your dog’s diet, do so over a few days, gradually mixing in the new food with the old, until the new food takes up the majority then the whole of the feed.

Try to feed your dog at the same time each day – by now you’re probably only feeding one meal a day – and this will help regulate his toileting habits too (most dogs need to go to the loo within half an hour of eating).

Obesity

 Feed the smallest quantity recommended for your size and type of dog, only increasing this if he starts to become thin and is exercising a lot. A lean dog will live longer and have less health problems such as arthritis and heart disease than one who’s overweight. You can tell your dog is overweight if they don’t have any waistline from above and you can’t feel the ribs easily under his coat.

Avoid giving tit-bits and never let your dog finish up human food as it’s too high in salt, protein and fat. Instead, offer an occasional doggie treat as a reward for some training work or toilet training successes.

Exercise

Jogging, accompanying you while cycling and swimming are all excellent forms of dog exercise but you need to match the type of exercise to the size and breed of dog. You should be aiming for a gentle trot, not an all out run, although greyhounds, in particular, enjoy a short sprint every now and then. Getting out and about also gives your dog essential social contact – with other humans, dogs and the wider environment.

If your dog is small, mature or overweight, ask your vet about a suitable programme of exercise as they will have specific requirements.

Dental care
If you haven’t yet started a dental routine for your dog, why not? Early brushing with a canine toothpaste and a soft-bristled human toothbrush will pay dividends later on and help get your dog used to having her mouth touched. If your dog isn’t keen to have his mouth opened, let alone his teeth brushed, try offering a small treat to get him to open his mouth and just brush the teeth at the front. Then you can progress onto brushing all the teeth, sides, bottom and top, with an accompanying treat.

Plaque can build up quickly, requiring scale and polish type treatments at the vet later on in life so act now to help keep those teeth clean for longer. You can buy special dental chews, edible and just for chewing on, at pet stores and the vets. Some dry foods are designed to help keep the teeth in peak condition so ask your vet.

Grooming

There are two reasons why you should groom your dog and the less obvious one is very important. By grooming your dog, you are sending a message out that you are the pack leader and he shouldn’t forget it.

Grooming is essential for long-haired breeds but is also good for short-coats like the boxer or wire haired terrier as it helps groom out dead hairs from the coat and gives you the opportunity to look for lumps and bumps and to find and treat any parasites! Having a dog that’s used to being handled and touched all over will also avoid confrontation at the vet’s.

Certain breeds such as West Highland White Terriers and wire-coated Jack Russells love having a summer cut at the grooming parlour and it makes them more frisky and happy afterwards.

It’s also a good idea to check the eyes and ears regularly for signs of infection or discharge, that could indicate parasites eg ear mites.

Keeping your adult dog’s teeth and gums in good shape will pay dividends as he gets older.

About canine teethÂ
Dogs have 42 teeth and their jaws should join together in a scissor bite, except in Boxer dogs where the lower jaw juts over the top jaw. The baby teeth will have fallen out by around seven months old to be replaced with the full-size adult teeth. Wild dogs use the four long canine teeth to hold prey in the mouth and tear meat while all dogs use their teeth to break the food into smaller pieces, rather than to chew it as humans do.

Why brushÂ
A dog cannot keep their own teeth clean, except by crunching up bones as they would have done in the wild. Most dogs today have a fairly non-abrasive diet, with either wet or dry food or a combination of the two, so they need a little extra help from their human owners to get rid of the tartar that builds up on the teeth as a result.

BOX
Dietary help for teeth
• There are specific ‘dental formula’ dry foods so ask your vet if you think this would help.
• Dental chews, crunchy biscuits and the odd marrowbone will all help keep the teeth and gums in good condition as the chewing action helps clean the teeth.

A healthy mouthÂ
You should check your dog’s teeth and gums once a week. The gums should be pink and odour-free, with no signs of redness or inflammation. With the teeth, you’re looking for signs of obvious damage such as any chips or wearing down (common in dogs that like to chase and carry stones in their mouths that should be discouraged!). Plaque build-up is easy to spot and it’s far easier to prevent build-up in the first place than it is to deal with it once it has taken hold.

BOX
Doggie dental equipment
• Soft-bristled human toothbrush – buy one that’s got the right size head for your breed of dog.
• Special canine toothpaste – available at pet stores or your vet practice.

How to brushÂ
Use a gentle circular motion, not a scrubbing one that could damage the gums and leave them vulnerable to an infection. Try to brush all the teeth, not neglecting those at the back of the mouth. You may have to build up the amount of brushing time if your dog is unused to having it done and offer a treat afterwards.

Dental problems and treatmentsÂ
Gingivitis – gum disease, caused by bacteria build-up at the base of the tooth. Signs are redness and inflammation where the gums meet the teeth, bleeding from the gums when brushing and a bad smell in the mouth. If tartar has formed, the only long-term remedy is a scale and polish under general anaesthetic at the vet’s.
Tooth decay and abscesses – large cavities are easy to spot but an abscess at the root of the root isn’t. Signs of a problem include a reluctance to eat, pawing at the mouth, bad breath and a swelling directly over the affected tooth, near the root. Usually, the tooth will be removed and antibiotics used to kill any infection although the root can be drained and filled to deal with an abscess.
Physical damage – common problems include chips, cracks and wearing down of the teeth that can lead to infection, requiring antibiotics.
Genetic abnormalities – certain physical abnormalities are passed on from generation to generation and tend to run in certain breeds. For example, retained milk teeth in Yorkshire Terriers that need removing under anaesthetic and an over-bite in Boxer dogs.

Older dogs
Regular cleaning will become even more vital as your dog grows older and is more prone to tooth decay and gum disease. Your vet can do a dental check once a year at the annual assessment and booster vaccinations but always see your vet in the meantime if your dog becomes reluctant to eat, starts pawing at his mouth or seems in pain/miserable. Many older dogs end up having a ‘scale and polish’ which is done under general anaesthetic to remove toughened tartar build-up but, obviously, this can’t be done often so it’s up to you to keep on top of things with regular brushing.

Vet checklistÂ
• Brush your dog’s teeth three times a week, to avoid plaque build-up.
• Offer dental chews to help keep his teeth clean.
• Don’t use human toothpaste as it simply isn’t suitable.
• Ask your vet to check the dog’s teeth at least annually.

Cross references
Teeth – cross refer to Mouth and teeth problems (puppy)
Genetic abnormalities – cross refer as above

Glossary
tartar – a hard, crust-like deposit found on the crowns and bases of teeth, formed when mineral salts from saliva are deposited in existing plaque.
plaque – a rough, sticky coating on the teeth that consists of saliva, bacteria and food debris, usually found at the margins of teeth and gums.
over-bite –  in a dog, the teeth should mesh together when the animal bites but if the upper or lower jaw juts out further, this is an under-bite or an over-bite.

Latest from the Buddies Pet Insurance news team …  British dog breeders are making a mockery of the law banning American pit bull terriers by selling an almost identical breed that is equally vicious and is being widely used in illegal dog fights. The Telegraph newspaper has discovered that the new dogs, whose extreme aggression and tenacity mirror those of the feared American breed, are being sold under the “codename” of “Irish” Staffordshire bull terriers.The RSPCA says that the “Irish” variety - which it does not recognise as a breed - is helping to fuel the return of dog fighting to levels last seen in the 1980s before the Dangerous Dogs Act was enforced. Mike Butcher, the chief inspector for the RSPCA special operations unit set up to prosecute dog fighting rings, said that between 1980 and 1991 he and his colleagues carried out 13 raids and jailed almost 100 people.There was a lull in the number of dog fights during the 1990s, but in the past 18 months alone the unit has pursued seven court cases.