Archive for March, 2008

Pet insurance note: all comprehensive pet insurance policies should cover insured cats and dogs for injury caused by accidents. 

Your bundle of fun can easily land himself in trouble, so it’s worth having some idea of what to do if the situation calls for immediate action. Invest in a pet first aid box and keep it handy. You can either create your own, ask your vet for advice on what to include, or buy one of the commercially available kits now on offer.

Superficial injuries like shallow cuts and bruises can be dealt with at home. Clean them with sterile solutions and apply antiseptic cream. If it is a deep cut, apply a pressure bandage - never use a tourniquet – and take him to the vet. Likewise, if a superficial wound does not improve within a couple of days take him down to the local practice for a check up.

Burns should also be treated fast, clean the area with sterile solution and apply petroleum jelly and/or a cold compress. Serious conditions, such as accidents, shocks and poisoning will be beyond the ability of most owners to treat. The best you can do, is try to keep your puppy warm and comfortable. In the event of a collapse pull his tongue forward to prevent him from choking. If the cause is a foreign object stuck in the throat, this may be dislodged by holding him upside down and patting him gently on his back.

Other conditions that can affect dogs include heat exhaustion, the result of hot weather and over exertion. Lower you puppy’s body temperature slowly by giving water and applying ice packs to the neck.

However skilful your nursing efforts, it is prudent to seek professional advice. Once you have done what you can, take him to the vet as soon as you can.

The choice of equipment and gadgets on offer to new puppy owners can be bewildering. The fact is that your puppy actually needs very little – food, water, warmth and attention. However, some basic extras will go along way in helping him settle into his new home.

Starting with his bed – a low-sided sturdy cardboard box is fine – place it in a warm, quiet corner away from the hustle and bustle of the household. Fill it with old bedding and woollies.

It’s worth considering a playpen, somewhere he can amuse himself with toys, leaving you free to go about the daily chores without worrying about him getting into trouble. Toys are not only a useful distraction, but an important tool helping with your puppy’s development. They should be non-toxic and contain no sharp or detachable parts that could cause damage or be swallowed.

Feeding bowls come in all shapes and sizes, it’s worth choosing one that doesn’t slip around when placed on the floor or feeding mat. Make sure that you have separate bowls for food and water and that the water bowl is constantly refreshed and full.

You will probably be bombarded with advice on food. Whatever brand you choose, stick to the manufacturers recommended daily amount. Do not be tempted to ‘treat’ him to a little extra, obesity can be a major problem and needs to be tackled early.

Preparing your puppy for his first venture into the outside world can be daunting. Start by placing a light collar around his neck well before the big day arrives so he gets used to it in time. Make sure you can slip two fingers in between the collar and his neck. Also check that there is nothing sticking out he could catch it on.

Finally speak to your vet or pet shop about the right brush and comb for your puppy. This will depend in large part on the length of his coat.

Pet insurance note: Ask your vet about pet insurance - the practice may be licensed to sell a policy. If not, they should be in a position to discuss the merits of cover.

Vet practices provide a one-stop-shop for pet healthcare needs. Part of the service should include advice on all aspects of your puppy’s wellbeing. Good practices lie at the heart of the local pet community, sharing information on local clubs, training, pet shops and pet related activity.

Your first encounter with the vet is most likely to be when you take your puppy for vaccinations. Take the time to pick up useful leaflets and ask questions if you are at all unsure about aspects of care such as worming, teeth and diet.

Practices are housed in a wide variety of buildings, from small converted domestic properties to purpose built modern blocks. They generally share a similar layout, with a reception/waiting area at the front, consulting rooms and a theatre where operations take place.

Practices tend to divide the working day into consultation and surgery/diagnostics periods. The consultation is normally booked in advance and is the opportunity for you to take your puppy into the practice for routine preventative treatment, or for diagnosis of problems. Some practices hold open surgeries which, as the name suggests, is open to all and based on a first-come, first serve basis with no appointment necessary.

Of course, emergencies take priority, so the working day may need to be changed at short notice.

Hopefully you will find a practice you like and stick with it. The advantage being that the vet will have a deeper understanding of your pet’s health history if they have treated him from a puppy.

In addition to a vaccination, the vet will give your puppy a through examination. Checking on the eyes, ears and mouth as well as listening to the heart and breathing. They will also check the torso and limbs for lumps and bumps which could be a sign of a problem. During the exam most vets will ask owners simple questions, both to establish a relationship and ensure that the owner understands how to look after their pet properly.

Successful housetraining is all about building a routine – puppy owners should ensure meals are taken the same time each day. Puppies tend to poo around 20 minutes after their meal, this is when they need a helping hand.

House training should start as soon as your puppy arrives in his new home. Gently lead him to the area of the garden or room designated as his toilet. If he performs in the right area heap him with praise. He’ll soon catch on to the idea that this is where he needs to go. Praise should be immediate, within seconds, any longer and he won’t know what you are talking about!

Try to catch him before the action starts, look for tell tale signs like the back legs starting to give way, or circling the ground and sniffing. If you can get him to the right place in time make sure he knows he’s done well. Use your chosen words of command such as ‘toilet’ while he is at his business, so he begins to associate the words with the action.

You may not get him outdoors every time and should therefore put down newspapers or specially designed soiling pads in a corner of the chosen room while he is still in training. Gradually move the pad towards the door. Over time your puppy will realise that toileting is an activity for the great outdoors.

Patience and praise are the watchwords. Never shout or punish your puppy, this may only lead to further problems. Just accept that he is still young, clean up the mess and scrub down where necessary with cleaners that get rid of the odour.

Pet insurance note on travel with pets: Buddies Pet Insurance Territorial Limits. Your pet is covered whilst away from home with you in the United Kingdom, Northern Ireland, Isle of Man, Channel Islands and including Eire but only up to a maximum stay of 30 days during the policy period. In accordance with the European Economic Community regulations this insurance also extends to cover your pet under the PETS Travel Scheme whilst temporarily located in any member country of the PETS Travel Scheme (Excluding long haul countries as defined by DEFRA), but only for a maximum stay of thirty (30) daysduring the policy period in respect of Bronze or Silver Cover or unlimited overseas travel during the period ofinsurance in respect of Gold cover.

Travel with pets requires preparation and there are a number of key points worth considering. However short the journey, make sure your puppy has a collar with a suitable ID tad. His lead is another important piece of equipment.

For longer journeys take the essentials – food, water, bowls and poop bags. Some puppies are happy to travel in the car, but others dislike the whole experience. Introduce the routine slowly if you have a reluctant puppy, increasing the car journey time in small increments if at all possible.

Although the vet can provide anti-sickness medicines, the good news is that in time most dogs grow out of the problem. However, it’s a good idea not to feed your puppy just before putting him in the car. Encourage him to go to the toilet before the trip starts. It may be worth taking a short work before you set out, not only will the fresh air do him good, but it may make him less jumpy once in the car.

Dogs should always be securely transported. An active, unsecured dog in a confined space is an accident waiting to happen. Owners have a choice of car safety products, from special dog harnesses that connect to the seatbelt to reinforced steel travelling cages.

Unfortunately, travelling with pets using public transport is not as easy as it should be. Private operators, including rail franchises, have different rules. Most local bus services will allow dogs on board, but long distance coach operators are less obliging.

With the introduction of the Pet Travel Scheme international travel for dogs has become a practical option. Dogs must be microchipped , have relevant vaccinations and be passed fit to fly if going by air. Your local vet should be able to provide all the advice and practical help to ensure successful inclusion under this scheme.

Most international airlines make provision for flying pets. There are strict regulations which must be met. Speak to your airline of choice at the earliest opportunity to check on their requirements.

Finally and most importantly – never leave a dog alone in a car on warm or hot day, this can lead to overheating and in extreme cases have fatal effects.

 Pet insurance note: it’s always advisable to visit the vet for routine preventative treamnents including flea medication. This type of visit is not covered by pet insurance policies.

Bath time can be fun, once your puppy gets used to the idea!

Start the bathing routine while he’s still young, but don’t go overboard – vets generally recommend no more than one bath a month. A puppy’s skin is very sensitive, so use special puppy formulas if possible.

Prepare yourself well in advance of bath time, because once you have him in the tub things can get hectic. Make sure the room is warm and draft free. The water should be tepid and everything you need, including shampoo and a warm towel, close at hand. A rubber mat in the bath will prevent him slipping around and reduce the chances of scratching the enamel.

Start by brushing off any excess dead hairs and after thoroughly wetting his hair put a small amount of shampoo on your hand and lather his whole body. Be careful to avoid the ears and eyes. Don’t forget his instinctive reaction to getting wet is to shake himself vigorously, so it’s a good idea to clear the bathroom first. Rub him down with a warm towel, some dogs will even allow you to use a cool setting on the hairdryer which speeds up the whole drying process.

While bath time is a relatively infrequent activity, grooming should take place every day. Not only does it ensure that his coat stays in good condition, but it gives you the opportunity to check for parasites as well as lumps and bumps lurking beneath the hair.

Check with your vets about the most suitable combs and brushes.

Play is an important part of a puppy’s early life – it’s instinctive, all an owner has to do is channel it into a positive experience.

Play is intrinsically linked to hierarchy, the stronger the dog the higher his place in the pack. So do not let your puppy win every game you play, because he will mistake you for someone who is weaker and can be dominated. Be fair but firm and he’ll recognise you as his ‘leader’. This will make your life together far easier. Set the rules and avoid being rough when playing with him.

Soon you will develop your own games, but try the old favourites too like hide and seek. Fetch and retrieve games should also be a part of your repertoire. Not only is it fun, it uses his natural hunting instincts, gets him running and enjoying the great outdoors. Avoid using the traditional stick or branch, because this can damage his mouth.

While play is a social activity, your puppy must also learn to keep himself amused. You can’t be around every minute of the day. There are plenty of dog toys available from pet shops that provide hours of stimulating fun. If he can keep himself occupied he is less likely to be destructive when left alone.

Just like us, a dog’s eyes and ears can be prone to infections. The most common condition is conjunctivitis. It’s easy to spot, look out for redness around the eye. This can be accompanied by a sticky discharge. Dogs with conjunctivitis tend to blink a lot in a vain effort to reduce the irritation. There are a number of different causes of the condition, from air borne irritants to viruses and bacteria. The good news is that it’s easy to treat, generally the vet will prescribe eye drops. The tricky part is holding your puppy down long enough to administer the cure!

An inquisitive puppy may also scratch the surface of his eye, or damage it in some other way. It’s worth taking a few minutes each week to check that he’s fine. Look out for droopy or closing eyelids and be aware of any discharge. If in doubt, check in with the vet.

Ear infections affect some breeds more than others. The rule of thumb is that the longer the ear, the more likely the problem. Infections, whether caused by parasites, bacteria or yeast generally result in a discharge. A funny smell around the ear will alert you to the problem. There is no single treatment for all infections, but your vet will be able to administer the correct one.

Puppy owners in particular need to keep an eye out for ear mites. These tiny parasites produce a gritty, black discharge which can be treated with ear drops form the vet.

Pet insurance note: accidents do happen, check your pet insurance policy to see what’s covered.

Your puppy will push his nose into every nook and cranny of your home if you let him. So start by setting boundaries. Keep him in the rooms you want him to use, deploy safety barriers if necessary.

He won’t have a clue about what’s dangerous or not, so you have to take some basic precautions. Start by putting anything potentially dangerous, such as cleaning materials and medicines, out of his reach. Don’t forget he can probably chew his way through most things, so don’t think you’ve done your job just because the safety cap is on.

Rubbish should be kept securely in a bin, and put cables and cords well out of reach.  Don’t be too precious, if there’s something you really value, like a rug or chair, either keep him out or put it away.

Puppies are happy to follow a scent wherever it may lead them. So secure your boundaries. If you let your puppy out in the garden, check that all the fences are well set in the ground. He’ll have no trouble burrowing under a shallow fence. If he is prone to jumping, go for high fencing. Some puppies are great escape artists and seem to get round all the barriers you have set. A useful tip is to let near neighbours meet him early on, so they recognise him if he escapes into their garden. They may also be more tolerant of him generally if they first build a rapport.

While you are checking out the garden, be sure to remove any poisonous plants he may chew. Check in with you local garden centre if you are at all unsure and need further advise. You might also take the opportunity to transplant precious items to areas of the garden he is less likely to visit.

Also set out a toilet area, so you decide where he does his business rather than leave it to him. You may want to consider a dog waste disposal unit which are becoming increasingly popular.

Finally, cover all water hazards, such as ponds and water butts – your puppy may not be a natural swimmer.