Archive for the ‘Rabbit guide’ Category

Wild rabbits exist entirely on grass, plants, vegetation and tree bark so your pet rabbit’s diet should reflect these basic feeding instincts.

Getting it right
The majority of rabbit problems seen by vets are the result of incorrect feeding, leading to digestive problems and overgrowth of the teeth. But, with the correct diet and a good feeding routine, your rabbit shouldn’t suffer any problems.

Once you’ve decided how you’re going to feed your rabbit, stick to his feeding plan carefully by putting food down at the same time each day and introducing any new foods very gradually. Dividing your rabbit’s food into two and feeding one portion in the morning and the other in the evening will also create a similar feeding pattern to that in the wild.

Back to basics
Your rabbit’s basic diet will, to some extent, be dictated by their individual feeding behaviour and your own lifestyle. For example, if your rabbit is a house pet and doesn’t have access to an outside run, a constant supply of hay (dried grass) is even more essential because he can’t have fresh grass. He may also be a choosy eater which will need to be addressed.

The majority of vets recommend a diet based on grass and/or dried hay with leafy greens and vegetables, and a good quality, dry rabbit food (following the guidelines on quantity carefully).

Green, green grass
Hay (dried grass) should be the basic ingredient of your rabbit’s diet because it provides vital fibre, helps your rabbit to wear down his teeth and even reduces boredom. You should make this available at all times and in unlimited quantities.

Hay is necessary to help your rabbit wear down his teeth through chewing for prolonged periods – rabbits naturally chew and forage for at least four hours a day! Rabbit teeth are ‘open rooted’ which means they grow constantly and, amazingly, this can be as much as 3-4mm a week!

Fresh fruit and veg
It is important to feed fresh green foods to your rabbit, especially dark green, leafy veg but be careful not to introduce too much, too quickly because this can have an adverse effect on your rabbit’s digestive system if they are not familiar with the food. Build up the amounts gradually, over three to four weeks at least, to avoid conditions such as diarrhoea and bloat.

Fruit and carrots should be fed sparingly as they are high in sugar and can cause your rabbit to develop a ‘sweet tooth’ which, in turn, may make them reluctant to consume the other parts of their daily diet. Avoid citrus fruits like oranges altogether and wash all fruit and veg before giving them to your rabbit.

Fave stuff
• Dandelion leaves
• Clover
• Carrots* and leaves
• Broccoli
• Parsley
• Celery
• Brussel sprouts
• Kale*
• Spinach*
• Grapes*
• Apples*
• Pears*
*Feed sparingly

Commercial foods
There are two main types of commercially available dried rabbit food but be careful to avoid over-feeding by following the manufacturer’s guidelines carefully:
• Mix – created from a blend of different ingredients of varying colours and shapes. Be sure to monitor the amount provided to avoid selective feeding.
• Mono-component – in two forms, pellets and extruded food. These are usually one colour, size and shape which discourages selective feeding and are created from a mix of ingredients. Most good quality, commercially available mono-component diets contain the necessary vitamins and minerals for good health. Extruded food is cooked and then shaped, making it more palatable.

‘Selective feeding’
Many rabbits will feed selectively given the chance, that is, consume selected ingredients within the mix of food they are given, leading to the diet becoming nutritionally inbalanced. To combat this problem, commercial rabbit food manufacturers have come up with mono-component diets in pellet or extruded form. Each piece contains an identical level of nutrients so the rabbit receives a balanced diet without realising it!

Mineral deficiencies
Providing a good diet as outlined above should avoid your rabbit developing any nutritional deficiencies. Mineral blocks are available in pet stores and are designed to be hung in your rabbit’s run or hutch but most rabbits will not know when they’ve had enough and over-use can lead to urinary problems such as bladder stones. So, if you do choose to offer a mineral block, limit the time it is available to your rabbit by removing it from the enclosure. If in doubt, ask your vet’s advice.

Healthy treats
There are a range of tasty snacks, such as seed sticks, available to buy at pet stores but these should be given sparingly and avoided altogether if your furry friend is overweight. Instead, try offering a willow or apple tree twig, a small piece of fruit, some dandelion leaves or clover to nibble on.

Weight watching
A healthy rabbit is one who isn’t too fat or too thin and whose droppings look like raisins – diarrhoea is bad news for rabbits and could lead to other nasty health problems such as flystrike.

If you’re unsure about the weight your rabbit should be or have a cross-breed, ask your vet or vet nurse’s advice. It’s easy enough to adjust the quantities of food although this must be done slowly and you should continue to make unlimited amounts of hay available at all times, whatever your rabbit’s weight.

Six rules of rabbit feeding
1 Allow your rabbit access to fresh hay at all times.
2 Avoid feeding too much of any one kind of veg.
3 Establish a proper feeding routine and make any changes to his diet slowly, over several weeks.
4 Give fresh fruit very sparingly – offer some dandelion leaves instead.
5 If he seems to be gaining weight, adjust the amount of food given daily.
6 Call your vet if your rabbit suffers loose stools, diarrhoea, a dirty bottom or lack of appetite.
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Your rabbit will live for around seven to nine years so it makes sense to try to get to know her early on and you’ll have a better relationship as a result

Happy handling
In the wild, rabbits live on the ground so they feel insecure when being picked up and don’t always enjoy being cuddled. But they love to be stroked and will tolerate this sort of attention for ages… as long as their paws are on the ground!

Handle your rabbit every day if you want her to become used to it and not struggle or scratch you.

Handling tips
• Never try to pick up your rabbit by her ears as this could cause severe damage.
• If she’s nervous, pick her up by holding the scruff of the neck behind the ears and supporting her bottom with your other hand. Or try holding her horizontally, with her head tucked under your elbow and the hand of the same arm supporting her bottom.
• Tamer rabbits can be picked up by supporting the chest area and forearms with one hand and the other supporting the rabbit’s bottom.
• Be calm when picking her up and hold her close to your body, supporting her back legs so that she doesn’t struggle, as a fall could cause a serious spinal injury.
• Some rabbits struggle and end up scratching you as you put them back into the hutch or cage so try putting them in backwards.

An active bunny
Don’t think that your rabbit’s hutch should be where she spends most of her time… it shouldn’t be! Rabbits need plenty of exercise, ideally up to two hours a day, to run around freely, sniff, explore and exercise those powerful hind legs.

An enclosed run in the garden is a good idea as it gives her more freedom but deters would-be escapees or poisonous plants being munched accidentally. Beware, though, because rabbits love to dig so there’ll be bare patches on your lawn and possible escapees!

Bunnies who don’t get enough exercise are prone to become overweight and may suffer with skeletal or joint disorders.

Avoiding boredom
Rabbits are born to chew and yours won’t be any different which is why they can get into trouble if left to roam unchecked in the home where trailing electrical cables are the number one hazard.

Provide your bunny with mental stimulation in the form of plenty of hay, cardboard tubes and boxes, teething rattles or balls with a bell inside.

You may also want to consider getting a companion for your rabbit. But, you’ll need to be careful if you want to go this route as it’s important to make sure your rabbit can live happily with another one and that you have the necessary hutch space – ask your vet or local rabbit rehoming centre for advice.

Bunny body language
Try to learn your rabbit’s signals and respect her boundaries. And if you’ve got the time and the inclination, you can actually train your rabbit to come when called!
• When your rabbit is happy and content, she’ll gently nudge you and may even start licking your hand, just as a dog or cat might.
• A tense upright stance with laid back ears and tail extended as far as possible usually means ‘I’m in attack mode!’
• Your rabbit may shake her ears, push your hand away or even nip you if she’s had enough interaction and wants to be left alone.
• Scratching her chin with her hind legs and then stamping them on the ground means she is marking out her territory as there are scent glands in the chin.
• Sitting up on her haunches means she is alert and interested in what’s going on around her.

Your vet can provide regular health check-ups, detailed dietary and dental advice, plus a vaccination plan to protect against two of the most serious rabbit diseases.

What jabs are available?
There are two extremely serious diseases that your rabbit can catch but that your vet can vaccinate against:
• viral haemorrhagic disease (VMD or HVD for short), and
• the dreaded myxomatosis, often seen in wild rabbits.
Both are carried by insects, often rabbit fleas, and VMD is also spread by birds and rodents. The good news is that an initial series of injections while your rabbit is young – usually a few weeks apart and given into the scruff of the neck – followed by regular annual boosters, will give her excellent long-term protection. You’ll need to be disciplined about keeping up to date with her booster jabs to give continuous protection.

Viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD)
This is a disease that’s specific to rabbits and is caused by a highly contagious virus that’s usually fatal because it causes internal bleeding. Early signs can include bleeding from the nose or bottom, difficulty breathing and loss of appetite. An annual jab is essential to avoid your rabbit becoming a victim as the disease is widespread in the UK’s wild rabbit population. The jab can be given from 10 weeks old initially.

Myxomatosis
First noted in the UK fifty years ago, this notorious disease is now widespread among the wild rabbit population and tends to peak in the late summer and early autumn. It’s spread mainly by rabbit fleas and causes severe swelling of the lips, eyelids and genitals, with the rabbit becoming disorientated, making it easy prey for predators.

You really don’t want your pet rabbit to catch myxomatosis because it’s nearly always fatal, even with intensive nursing, so annual jabs are essential and can be given from as young as six weeks old. ‘High-risk’ rabbits – those outdoors rurally and/or next to areas where there is a large wild rabbit population may require two jabs a year for total protection. Ask your vet’s advice.

Dental care
This is the number one reason why your rabbit could end up seeing the vet and it’s usually down to not having enough roughage in the diet. Your rabbit should be chewing for four hours a day or more so that requires a constant supply of hay and fresh green foods to nibble on. Daily chewing helps your rabbit to wear down her teeth and keeps the digestive system moving, so helping to avoid constipation and diarrhoea.

Dental problems include over-grown teeth and abscesses but any treatment, for example, filing down teeth, will need to be done under a general anaesthetic.
Your vet or vet nurse will be happy to advise about your rabbit’s diet to make sure you’ve got the basics right, but get into the habit of checking her teeth once a week to make sure they’re not overgrowing.

Nail clipping and grooming
If your rabbit’s claws become too long, it’s best to ask your vet to clip them off unless you’re confident about doing it. You need to avoid clipping into the pink area where there are blood vessels and nerve endings and specialist animal clippers are needed for the job.

Groom the coat and check your rabbit’s skin regularly as this will alert you to skin inflammation or other dermatological problems. The dreaded flystrike must be caught early to avoid a difficult and painful healing process while fur balls in the stomach can sometimes be avoided by regular grooming out of excess hair from the coat, essential in long-haired rabbits.

Flystrike
Known medically as ‘myiasis’, this gruesome skin condition is caused by flies (particularly bluebottles) laying their eggs on the skin of another animal, in this case, the rabbit. The eggs hatch out and the resulting maggots start eating into the rabbit’s skin rapidly. The good news is that flies are only attracted to dirty, damp fur so if you keep your rabbit in good condition, paying particular attention to keeping her bottom area clean and dry, you should avoid this unpleasant problem.

Check your rabbit’s bottom twice a day in summer when flies are at their peak in numbers – you can do this by turning her over onto her tummy gently. Flystrike can happen in as little as 12 hours so if your rabbit does develop a dirty bottom, take her to the vet for a clipping because washing won’t get rid of the smell and flies will still be attracted. Never try to clip your rabbit’s fur at home as rabbit skin is very thin and easily damaged.

Hutch care
Good hutch hygiene – cleaning out wet, dirty bedding daily – and using a fine wire mesh on the window areas will deter birds, rodents and insects from being attracted to or even getting inside the hutch. This will help prevent the spread of disease generally and is part of good, sensible rabbit management.

Vet checklist
• Keep up to date with your rabbit’s vaccinations
• Check your rabbit’s condition daily, paying particular attention to her coat, bottom area and teeth.
• Make sure that her hutch is kept clean, dry and tidy.
• Be aware that long-haired rabbits are more prone to flystrike and other skin problems.
• Maintain a good diet regime and don’t be tempted to offer ‘treats’ that are bad for her digestion.
 

The amount of care that you’ll need to give your rabbit will vary according to breed and is often affected by breed type.

Think before you leap!
Before taking on a baby rabbit, especially a pedigree breed, ask questions about the size he will grow to and the daily care he needs. This will help you judge whether you can give them the time and effort they need to keep them fit, well and happy and that you have enough space for the amount of rabbits you have, or are planning, into adulthood.

Remember that all rabbits are individuals and yours won’t necessarily match the breed descriptions here exactly, even if he has a pedigree. But you may get some useful tips about his behaviour and the level of care he’s likely to need, for example, with grooming.

Breed groups
Size, weight, coat, colour and ear shape and size all vary widely from breed to breed but here are two main breed groups that your rabbit may belong to:
• fancy, and
• fur.

Within the fur breeds, Rex and Satin are two that came into being in the last century and are characterised by short, dense fur coats. Lop rabbits belong to the fancy breed group and have droopy ears that hang down the sides of their head instead of standing alert.

Size varies hugely as the smaller breeds such as the Netherlands Dwarf is as small as a guinea pig whereas, at the other end of the scale, the British Giant can weigh in at 5-7kg or more – that’s the size of a small Jack Russell Terrier!

Small breeds
Small breeds generally weigh in from around 1-2kg. The Netherlands Dwarf rabbit is one of the smallest rabbit breeds in existence, weighing in at only 1kg, and even fully-grown Dwarfs still look like babies, they are so dinky! There’s a range of colours and they have short, upright ears and a good, even temperament.

Other small breeds include the Mini Lop, a lop-eared variety that weighs 1.5kg and the Dwarf Lop whose ears come down to just below the chin and weighs slightly heavier at 2-2.5kg.

The Dutch is a popular small breed of rabbit and one of the oldest known, with a distinctive white collar around the shoulders and two matching coloured eye and ear patches. Its quiet disposition and compact size at 2-2.5kg makes it a popular choice with families.

Medium breeds
Generally between 2.5-4kg, these include the friendly but lively English and the fluffy Angora that has a long coat requiring daily grooming to avoid tangles and matting. In fact, an Angora produces up to 1kg of wool per year! The English has a characteristic butterfly-marked nose area, a narrow saddle of colour along the back, dark eye circles and other markings, and comes in five different colours.

The Rex and Satin breeds are good natured but not often kept as pets and belong, in the main, to the medium breeds group. Their popularity stems from their beautiful velvety dense fur.

Large breeds
Three breeds dominate this group: the English Lop, the French Lop and the (usually) white New Zealand, all weighing in at a whopping 4.5kg upwards. And there are a few giant breeds, such as the British Giant, and require serious strength when being lifted and handled!

The English and French Lops both have ears that droop down but the English Lop’s ears are so long, they drag on the floor and for this reason, tend to be bred as show rabbits only.

As any rabbit should be able to stand up on their hind legs in the hutch, special consideration also needs to be given to the size of accommodation if you’re considering a larger breed.
 

Many rabbits live happily as indoor house pets like a cat or dog while others live equally happily in the garden, albeit protected by fencing to keep out predators. But most live in a purpose-built hutch in the garden (or house), with an outside run for use during the day.
Your rabbit is a sociable animal so he’ll also need plenty of company from you and/or another rabbit companion and won’t enjoy spending the majority of his time alone.

Whatever your circumstances, your rabbit needs a warm, dry and draught-free home for sleep and rest, with enough space to stretch out properly and plenty of stuff to nibble on at all times

Your rabbit’s home should have a ‘nesting’ area or bedroom that’s more private – usually with a solid door – and a living area with one end set aside for toileting, and the rest reserved for putting down the dried food and fresh veg.  A water bottle, plenty of hay in a rack and gnawing aid (for example, a bark-covered log) should be provided at all times. Putting dried food in a heavy ceramic bowl will help avoid it being tipped over.
The hutch should have feet so that it is off the ground and protected against draughts, with a pitched, waterproof roof sloping backwards and an overhang to avoid rain getting in. There are minimum dimensions depending on the breed and size of your rabbit.

Bedding
There’s a wide range of bedding available and much depends on what seems to suit your particular rabbit so it’s often a case of trial and error until you find one that suits you both. The ideal combination of layers is newspaper, then wood flakes and dust-extracted hay or straw on top, but safe alternatives include commercially available litters designed specifically for rabbits. Avoid cat litter as it can be abrasive underfoot and may cause foot sores.

Whichever sort of bedding you use, your rabbit still needs cleaning out completely two or three times a week and you should remove soiled and wet bedding daily to avoid attracting flies and increasing the risk of flystrike. It’s best to ‘muck out’ your rabbit when he’s not in residence as they are quite territorial creatures, so do it when he’s using the run or has been let out for some exercise. Once a week, use a weak solution
of bleach in water to scrub out the hutch but don’t renew the bedding until the interior is completely dry.

Free range rabbits
If you’re going to let your rabbit live freely in the garden, assess the vegetation, protect any delicate plants and trees with chicken wire and make sure your boundaries are secure. And expect digging – rabbits will tunnel under fences and lawns!

You’ll also need to provide a dry, warm shelter for the rabbits to use as their ‘bolt hole’ whenever the weather turns bad.

There are many plants that are poisonous to rabbits so check your garden’s contents before letting your rabbit out and, if in doubt about any plant, don’t let him eat it until you’ve checked on a more comprehensive list. The effect of eating such plants depends on many things including the actual amount consumed, the part eaten and the season. If necessary, move plants you believe to be harmful to a non-accessible part of the garden. Wild plants that are good for rabbits include dandelions, clover, chick-weed and goose grass (cleaver).

Grooming your rabbit
Your rabbit’s coat is made up of two layers: guard hairs underneath and an overcoat. In Angora and other long-haired breeds, the guard hairs can be as long as the overcoat which means daily brushing is essential to tease out any knots and avoid matting. Rescue centres are taking in an increasing number of long-haired rabbits that their owners have been unable to look after so think carefully before you take on a long-haired breed! When a rabbit’s coat becomes matted, they are at increased risk of problems like flystrike and fur balls. Long-haired breeds require clipping but this is a job for a specialist so don’t attempt it yourself.
If you have a short-haired rabbit, use a soft-bristled brush to brush out the coat a few times a week and simply increase the grooming at times when your rabbit is moulting his winter or summer coats in the spring and autumn).

House rabbits
According to the Rabbit Welfare Fund, a house rabbit displays more natural behaviour patterns than his hutch-kept counterpart and the extra exercise that a house rabbit gets means they’re less likely to suffer from skeletal problems. Any rabbit can be house-trained and adult rabbits can be easier to litter train than babies.
You’ll need to train your rabbit not to chew forbidden things around the home which takes time and effort, usually involving offering a more tasty alternative. Top of the safety list is covering electric cabling with tough, plastic piping and not leaving anything on the floor you don’t want chewed.
Most house rabbits have a cage in which they can stay when their owners are out and for sleeping in. This needs to be large enough for them as they become adults and situated away from draughts, direct sunlight and other heat sources.
Toilet training involves the use of a litter tray in one corner of the cage, getting the rabbit used to using the tray inside the cage and then gradually allowing him longer periods of time outside the cage.

Your rabbit needs enough room to stretch out on his side fully in both areas of the hutch and to stand up on his hind legs. Small rabbits require a hutch that is at least 90cms x 60cms x 45cms whereas a large breed needs 150cms x 60cms x 60cms. You should add 30cms in width for a second rabbit if you decide he needs a companion. If you’re thinking of keeping him indoors,there are minimum cage sizes, too, so check with whoever you’re buying the equipment from.

• Aloe vera
• Amaryllis
• Anemone
• Apple (seeds only)
• Apricot (all parts except the fruit)
• Asparagus fern
• Autumn crocus and crocus
• Azalea
• Bluebell
• Boxwood
• Bryony
• Buttercup
• Carnation
• Celandine
• Cherry tree
• Clematis
• Common privet
• Cowslip
• Cyclamen
• Daffodil
• Daisy
• Dogwood
• Elderberry
• Foxglove
• Geranium
• Gladiola
• Ground ivy
• Hemlock
• Henbane
• Holly
• Holly bindweed
• Horse chestnut
• Hyacinth
• Iris
• Laburnum
• Laurel
• Lily of the valley
• Listeria
• Lobelia
• Lupin
• Mistletoe
• Mushroom
• Nightshades
• Oak
• Oleander
• Parsnip
• Pear (seeds)
• Peony
• Poppy
• Primula
• Primrose
• Rhododendron
• Rhubarb
• Snowdrop
• Sweet pea
• Swiss cheese plant
• Toadflax
• Tomato (leaves, vines)
• Tulip
• Umbrella plant
• Violet
• Yew

It’s a myth that rabbits don’t need much in the way of veterinary care as there are plenty of preventive measures that will help keep her healthy.

You and your vet
When you first get your rabbit, find someone who’s experienced in dealing with and treating health problems in ‘small furries’. Don’t make the mistake of waiting until your pet is ill as you’ll be forced into finding someone nearby, as opposed to someone with expertise in this area.

Each vet’s knowledge of dealing with rabbits will vary, as it will for other domestic pets. Practices often have one particular vet who specialises in the care of ‘small furries’ such as rabbits and guinea pigs so ask to see them.

General care
Once you’ve chosen a vet, your rabbit needs vaccinating against viral haemorrhagic disease (VMD) and myxomatosis. She will then require annual boosters which also provide the chance to reassess your rabbit’s health with the vet and make any changes to aspects of her routine care, such as her diet.

When you take your rabbit for her annual boosters, the vet will give her a quick check-over. He or she will be looking at the teeth and weighing her, observing if the eyes are clear and bright, her ears are clean and free from mites and feel up and down her body to check for lumps and bumps and for the general condition of her coat. There are several skin conditions as well as parasites that can affect your rabbit and early intervention and treatment is always best.

It’s a good time to chat to your vet about your rabbit’s condition and any behaviour that has been concerning you. You should also check that her current diet is correct for her weight, age and the condition of her teeth as some adjustments may need to be made.

Signs of illness
Get to know what’s normal for your rabbit and don’t hesitate to call the vet or vet nurse if you’ve spotted a symptom that’s worrying you or her behaviour has suddenly changed. It may be just a quick bit of advice that’s needed or an actual appointment but it’s better to be safe than sorry.
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Diet and dental advice
Vets dealing with rabbits spend much of their time sorting out dental problems and this is usually down to the wrong diet. Rabbits need to chew for several hours a day to keep their teeth worn down as they never stop growing. That’s why you should make sure hay is available for your rabbit 24 hours a day and follow guideline limits on dry food carefully. A slim log with bark on is a good gnawing stick too!

Your vet checks your rabbit’s teeth by folding back the top lip and looking inside the mouth at the back teeth. It’s a good idea for you to learn how to check the teeth too, at least the front ones. If you don’t feel confident about this, ask your vet to show you the technique.

If the vet can’t get a good look but does suspect a dental problem, he or she may well suggest anaesthetising your rabbit so they can do a thorough examination. If necessary, they can then carry out some corrective dental work such as filing down the front teeth or extracting rotten ones. And remember, clipping teeth at home is not advised as you could break or shatter the teeth, causing more harm than good.

Rabbits and medication
If your vet recommends any medicine, such as eye or ear drops, they will show you how to administer this and may even suggest ways of holding your rabbit so it is more easily done. It’s important to follow your vet’s instructions carefully and complete any course of medication given.

Neuter now!
Unless you have a show rabbit, there’s no good reason to allow her to breed and, besides, rehoming centres are full of unwanted rabbits!
While neutering is a fairly major procedure in both males and female rabbits, the benefits far outweigh the temporary discomfort. In both sexes, it means less aggression or territorial behaviour and avoids cancer of the uterus which develops in up to 80% of female rabbits before five years old if left unspayed.

The op is done as a day-case procedure under general anaesthetic and is usually carried out at four to five months old in males, although it can be done as early as three months old. Females are usually spayed at five months old.

Vet checklist
• Get your rabbit used to being handled so she isn’t stressed by the vet check-ups.
• Learn to recognise your rabbit’s normal behaviour so you’ll know if something isn’t right.
• Check that your rabbit’s bottom is clean and dry twice a day.
• Note down symptoms to help your vet make a speedy diagnosis.
• Call the vet first if you are in doubt about the seriousness of symptoms, for advice about whether to bring in your rabbit.
• Don’t delay getting a suspected injury or illness checked out.
• Keep your vet’s number handy and make sure anyone looking after your rabbit has the details too.
 

It’s worth knowing a little about the common conditions that can affect rabbits so you can spot symptoms early and seek veterinary help.

Abscess
Swellings or lumps which can sometimes burst and discharge thick creamy pus. Abscesses on the body may be caused by bites or injuries.  Unfortunately, because rabbit pus is so thick, the infection inside cannot be drained or treated just with antibiotics so the rabbit may require surgery to remove the infected material.
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Jaw abscesses are a sign the rabbit is suffering from severe dental disease. They’re the result of tooth root infections and can affect the surrounding jaw bone and be very painful. The rabbit will need X-rays and major surgery to remove the infected tooth and bone.

Dental disease can be avoided in the first place by feeding your rabbit an appropriate diet.

Bloat
A very serious condition where the rabbit’s stomach and intestines become distended with gas. It happens because the intestines have slowed down or stopped working properly.

In young rabbits, bloating may be caused by a condition called ‘mucoid enteropathy’, where their bowels slow down, and they may pass a lot of mucus. There are various possible causes including parasites, bacterial infections and insufficient fibre in the diet.

Older rabbits may become bloated because of a digestive upset, especially if they are not getting enough fibre in their diet, but bloating can also be caused by a bowel obstruction. This is when the intestines become blocked with hair or foreign materials and requires an operation to relieve the obstruction.

Bloating in a rabbit of any age requires an immediate trip to the vet as it can be rapidly fatal without treatment. The treatment may be simply antibiotics, painkillers, intravenous fluids etc, or surgery may be required.

Coccidiosis
See Diarrhoea and Parasites, below.

Diarrhoea
True diarrhoea – where a rabbit passes liquid faeces – is a potentially serious condition and is most commonly seen in young rabbits, often around the time of coming home from the pet shop or breeder. The stress of increased handling and changes in environment and diet can make the rabbit susceptible to infections.

Coccidiosis, an infection by a small parasite, is another frequent cause of diarrhoea in young rabbits, but the problem can also be caused by bacterial or viral infections.

A rabbit with diarrhoea can quickly die from dehydration, so needs immediate veterinary treatment. Caecotrophs – dark, soft, sticky droppings – in the cage or stuck to the rabbit’s bottom – can be confused with diarrhoea. These droppings are normally eaten by the rabbit as soon as they are passed. However, if your rabbit has a sore mouth or is overweight, he may not be able to do this. He needs to see a vet who will check for these problems and may also clip the hair away to prevent soreness and flystrike.

E. cuniculi
A protozoan parasite which affects the rabbit’s kidneys and nervous system. The parasite is transmitted to rabbits via spores in infected urine (often mother to baby). Infection can lead to cataracts, paralysis, loss of balance, head tilt and kidney failure, but many rabbits carry the parasite without ever becoming ill. If your rabbit shows any of the above symptoms, he needs to see a vet who may prescribe medication or take a blood sample for analysis to try and confirm the condition.

GI stasis
This is where the rabbit’s bowel slows down or stops working so that food is no longer moving through. The stomach and intestines become bloated with gas which is uncomfortable for the rabbit who will stop eating, be less active and stop producing droppings. GI stasis can be caused by not enough hay in the diet but also by being unwell, in pain or after a recent anaesthetic. Contact your vet immediately if your rabbit stops eating or producing droppings.

Kidney disease
Kidney disease in the rabbit can have a variety of causes including E.cuniculi, a very high calcium diet (for instance, from over-supplementation with minerals) and stones in the kidney or ureter. It’s potentially very serious and can result in weight loss and reduced appetite, along with incontinence, soiling of the bottom area and increased thirst. Your vet may need to do X-rays and blood tests for a diagnosis. Rabbits can also get bladder stones or other urinary problems that cause incontinence and urine scalding round the bottom area. An operation may be necessary to remove any kidney stones and, if the rabbit’s bottom is soaked with urine, the vet may clip the hair away to prevent soreness and flystrike.
Parasites
• Coccidia – these tiny parasites can cause damage to the liver or intestines resulting in diarrhoea, weight loss or liver failure. Most commonly found in baby rabbits around 6-8 weeks old.
Treatment: sulpha drugs should get rid of the infestation.
• Ear mites – minuscule mites which can infest the rabbit’s ears causing irritation, head shaking and scratching. The characteristic brown flaky crusts in the rabbit’s ears are usually easy to spot. Treatment: a course of two or three anti-parasitic injections at intervals of 10-14 days. Never use dog or cat ear drops as they’re not suitable for rabbits and may even be harmful.
• Fleas – either the adult fleas themselves or their dark dirt may be found in the rabbit’s coat. They can easily be caught from cats, dogs or other rabbits. Treatment: ask your vet for a ‘spot-on’ treatment to eradicate the problem and treat the hutch/bed with a suitable insecticide to get rid of the flea larvae and their eggs.
• Lice – these are just about visible to the naked eye, or you may spot the egg cases attached to hairs. Treatment: ask your vet as there are several treatment options.
• Fur mites – there are two main types of mite which can live in the rabbit’s coat, both are tiny and only just visible to the naked eye. The most common is called ‘cheyletiella’. Small numbers of mites may be present without any obvious signs but problems arise when the rabbit can’t groom himself properly, for instance, because of dental problems or arthritis. In this situation, the numbers of mites can build up, leading to irritation of the skin, hair loss and dandruff, particularly in between the shoulder blades, where it is most difficult for the rabbit to reach. Treatment: a course of two or three anti-parasitic injections at 10-14 day intervals.
• Tapeworms – your rabbit can unknowingly ingest tape worm eggs from grass that has been contaminated by dog, cat or fox faeces. These tapeworms can form cysts internally which may cause health problems, so prevent access – keep dogs and cats out of the area where your rabbit grazes so he cannot become infected. Treatment: your vet can recommend a worming preparation.
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Pododermatitis
Otherwise known as ’sore hocks’, this condition can be very serious and painful for the rabbit. It results from the animal spending too much of their time on hard surfaces, which leads to pressure sores on the underside of the feet, especially if the rabbit is overweight.

Rabbits are designed to hop around on grass which, by letting the nails sink into it, takes the pressure off the back part of the feet. Surfaces like concrete or even the wooden floor of the hutch can be too hard and cause these pressure sores to develop.

The condition can be prevented by allowing your rabbit plenty of exercise on soft surfaces such as grass, keeping him slim and making sure that the hutch has plenty of bedding which is clean and dry. If sores do develop, see the vet.

Runny eyes
Usually caused by blocked tear ducts and are a common sign of dental disease in rabbits. The tear duct is the small tube which drains the rabbit’s tears away from his eyes. It runs very close to the tooth roots in the skull, and when these are too long (because of dental disease), they can become narrow or completely block the duct, causing tears to stream down the face and leading to infection. If your rabbit has runny eyes, your vet will check his teeth and may be able to flush out the tear duct under a local or general anaesthetic.

Snuffles
This is a common problem caused by a bacterial infection of the nasal sinuses. A variety of bacteria including pasteurella and staphylococcus can be involved, and infection leads to sneezing, snuffly breathing and pus round the nostrils. It might not seem serious but having a blocked nose can be very problematic for a rabbit as he can’t breathe well through his mouth. Take him to your vet, who can treat the infection with antibiotics, although the condition is likely to keep recurring.

Teeth problems
Dental disease is very common in rabbits and is caused by poor diet. The signs can start from as early as six months old and include overgrown incisors, runny eyes, weight loss, drooling, reduction in appetite, poor coat, dirty bottom and even abscesses around the face. If you can see overgrown teeth or suspect your rabbit may be suffering from dental disease, take him to your vet who can shorten the incisors using a special dental burr or file. He or she may need to sedate your rabbit to examine and file down the back teeth. To avoid dental disease, make sure your rabbit eats plenty of grass and hay every day.

Urinary problems
Soreness or wetness around the bottom area, incontinence, and pain on urination are all signs that your rabbit may be suffering from a urinary problem. It may be caused by stones in the bladder or urethra, an infection or ‘sludging’ of calcium deposits in the bladder, which can be the result of over supplementation of minerals in the diet. If you suspect your rabbit is suffering from a urinary problem, take him to your vet, who may need to X-ray the bladder to check for stones and flush out the bladder to remove sludge. If stones are diagnosed, your rabbit may need an op to remove them. If the skin is sore, your vet may need to clip away the fur to prevent wetness and flystrike.

Uterine cancer
Sadly, this is very common in unneutered female rabbits and the early signs include blood in the urine followed by steady weight loss. The best treatment is spaying in the early stages of the disease but, better still, prevent it happening in the first place by spaying your rabbit at around five months old.
 

Ever wondered why your rabbit chews all the time or drums his feet on the ground… read on!

Ear,ear
The size of your rabbit’s ears compared to his body tells you that his hearing is a vital sense in detecting approaching predators and dangers.

Breed basics
There are more than 200 breeds of rabbit but the largest is the British Giant, weighing in at 7kgs or more.

Greener than green
Rabbits are herbivores and grass is their favourite food. They need hours of nibbling time every day to keep their teeth short so they don’t over-grow.

Question of taste
With almost twice as many tastebuds as us humans, rabbits have a surprisingly sophisticated sense of taste.

Natural rhythms
Your rabbit likes to be active at dawn and dusk and quiet during the day which mimics the behaviour of his wild cousins.

Baby, baby
Young rabbits are called ‘kits’ and shouldn’t be weaned from their mother’s milk until around four-six weeks old.

Two’s company
Sociable but territorial animals, the best combination for two rabbits living together is a spayed female and a neutered male.

Home, sweet home
In the wild, your rabbit would live in ‘warrens’, tunnels that inter-connect, with a living room called the ‘kettle’ and nesting chambers.

Staying ahead
Your vet will recommend neutering your rabbit before he or she reaches sexual maturity at around seven months old so this is why the op is usually done at around four-five months old in both sexes.

Talk to me!
Your rabbit uses a surprisingly wide range of verbal and non-verbal communication, such as growling when being aggressive and drumming his hind feet on the ground when worried.
 

10 fun facts about rabbits
A-Z of rabbit ailments
How your vet can help
Hutch n stuff
Know your breed
Preventative care
Understand your rabbit
Your rabbit’s diet