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Latest from the Buddies Pet Insurance news team…Politics is taking the world of dogs more seriously, at  least the Conservative party is claiming it will carry out extensive consultation with a wide variety of organisations before deciding what to include in its next manifesto. A meeting was called near the House of Commons at which the Shadow Minister for Agriculture Bill Wiggin called for ideas from representatives of animal welfare groups. He had written a letter before the meeting promising to listen to all the views and then come up with a policy the Conservatives would take into government – when they were elected.  The topics discussed ranged from the European Convention on Pet Animals to reform of the Dangerous Dogs Act and the uneven standards applied to licensing of boarding kennels and pet shops. After the meeting Mr Wiggin said: “We are a nation of animal lovers and I want to make sure that the Conservative Party maintains a strong, constructive relationship with the organisations representing animals and animal owners.”

Cats and children
Daily care - get into good habits
Health problems in older cats
Moving home with your cat
Neutering explained
Spraying - the facts
Why does she do that?

Spraying is a natural part of your cat’s communication system and only becomes a problem when he does it indoors.

1 Spraying is your cat’s calling card because the smell from the small amount of urine left behind is unique to him and marks out his territory to himself and other cats.

2 It’s essential to know the difference between urinating and spraying in the home as these are two very different problems and require different treatments to tackle them effectively. When a cat sprays, he does it standing up and facing away from the object or area he is marking, usually with a twitching tail.

3 It’s not just Tom cats! All cats – male and female, neutered or entire – may do it at some point in their lives but Tom cat urine has a particularly pungent aroma which is why owners detect its presence much more easily indoors.

4 Spraying in urban areas where there are a lot more cats per square mile gives time signals – indicated by the freshness of the urine – so felines can avoid each other and potential conflict.

5 Neutering a male Tom cat will help prevent him spraying inside the home but also more importantly avoid unwanted pregnancies and encourage him to stay closer to home.

6 You need to get rid of the smell from spraying as soon as it happens to avoid your kitten remarking the area. Use a non-ammonia based cleaning fluid to avoid him thinking another cat has simply sprayed over his own markings – your vet can recommend a suitable product.

7 Moving your cat’s food to where he has sprayed (and you’ve since cleaned) will stop him spraying there again as cats won’t spray near their eating area.

8 Spraying is normally the sign of an over-anxious or unsettled cat so you may want to lock his cat flap for a while so he knows other cats can’t get in and put his basket and feeding stuff in one room where he feels safe.

9 Using a cat pheromone spray (ask your vet) in the rooms where your cat spends most of his time may also help him to relax and feel less need to spray.
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If you haven’t had your cat neutered, why not? Unless you’re planning to breed, the health benefits far outweigh any temporary discomfort from the op.

Why neuter?  Too many cats end up homeless and waiting for a new owner at animal shelters so unless you have a very good reason for breeding, for example, you have a show cat, there’s no reason not to neuter. The health benefits are indisputable: neutering reduces aggressive tendencies towards other cats (especially with Toms) so they will suffer less injuries as a result. They’ll also be at reduced risk of infections such as FeLV which is transmitted through cat saliva. Neutering also curbs a cat’s natural desire to wander so they are less likely to get lost or become involved in a road traffic accident. A neutered male cat is also far less likely to spray inside the home, a real nuisance behaviour that is hard to sort out.

When to do it  Most vets recommend doing the op from around five months old, just before puberty. However, there’s no reason why you can’t have an older cat neutered but the op can’t be done when they are in season. Ask your vet about the best time to do it, depending on your cat’s particular circumstances.

Males or Tom cats  Technically known as ‘castration’, this is an operation that’s done under general anaesthetic where a small incision is made over the scrotum through which the testicles are removed.

Females  ‘Spaying’ is a more major operation but nevertheless is still carried out on a day-patient basis, under a general anaesthetic. The vet will remove the uterus and both ovaries through an incision in the abdomen and there will be stitches that need removing around 7-10 days later as well as internal stitches that will dissolve naturally on their own.

Recovery  The vast majority of cats recover well within a week of their op but will require plenty of rest in the first few days. Be guided by your vet as to what to do and when, including advice about feeding after you bring them home. Look out for signs of infection in the stitches such as redness or inflammation.

Latest from the Buddies Pet Insurance news team… A new brew strictly for dogs has hit the market with a splash. Sold in a glass bottle with a contented German Shepherd pictured on the label, the beef-flavoured beer is the first in the country. Sold at a Derby pet shop, it is non-alcoholic and said to have nutritional value. According to shop manager Mike Hall there is potassium, protein and fats in the drink and nothing that will harm the canine drinker. “People are going to sit to watch the football and have a beer with the dog,” he said. He added that there was a lot of repeat business because the pets “really enjoyed it”. Imported from Holland, it is called Kwispelbier – “tail-wagging beer” – and sells at £1.99 for a 33cl bottle. It is made using a traditional brewing process and contains malt barley extract. If the initial testing at the Derby shop of Pets at Home, proves a lasting success, the company intends to widen sales throughout the UK.

Know the early signs of ill health and keep up to date with your cat’s preventive care so she stays in good condition into old age.

Preventive care
As your cat grows older, it’s more important than ever to keep up the usual preventive measures so that your cat stays in tip top condition. This means taking her for the annual booster vaccinations against cat flu, feline leukaemia and infectious enteritis, as well as regular worming to keep internal parasites at bay. Parasites can cause weight loss, loss of coat condition and make your cat feel generally unwell, as well as put you and the rest of the family at risk of serious infections such as toxoplasmosis and toxocara cati. Seeing the vet at least annually will also give him the chance to assess your cat’s overall condition for her age and suggest any dietary or lifestyle changes that might help.

Teeth and gums
As with dogs, your cat’s teeth will inevitably deteriorate with age because she cannot clean them herself and is reliant on you for any dental care. Many owners are understandably nervous about trying to clean their cat’s teeth, which is why vets recommend starting the routine from kittenhood.

In any case, you should check your cat’s teeth and gums once a week. The gums should be pink and odour-free, with no signs of redness or inflammation. With the teeth, you’re looking for signs of obvious damage such as any chips or wearing down. Plaque build-up is easy to spot on the margins of the teeth near the gums and is far easier to prevent build-up in the first place than it is to deal with it once it has taken hold.

Common dental problems include:
• Gingivitis – gum disease, caused by bacteria build-up at the base of the tooth. Signs are redness and inflammation where the gums meet the teeth, bleeding from the gums when brushing and a bad smell in the mouth. If stubborn tartar has formed, the only remedy is a scale and polish under general anaesthetic at the vet’s.
• Tooth decay and abscesses – large cavities are easy to spot but an abscess at the root of the root isn’t. Signs of pain in a cat are a reluctance to eat, pawing at the mouth, tears from one or other of the eyes and bad breath. Usually, the tooth will be removed and antibiotics used to stop any infection although dental work on the root of the affected tooth can deal with an abscess.
• Physical damage – common problems include chips, cracks and wearing down of the teeth that can lead to infection, requiring antibiotics.

Joint pain/stiffness/arthritis
Older cats can’t jump as high and are less agile so will need help with getting up to their favourite perch, perhaps with a well positioned chair to give them a staging point for jumping higher. For this reason, too, and because their fur thins with age, their bed should be positioned well away from draughts and somewhere quiet, away from the noise of family life.

Consider, too, where the litter tray is and how easy it is for your cat to get in and out and if he has neck or back problems, consider raising the food and water bowl so he doesn’t have to bend down to them. Check his nails regularly because a less active feline won’t wear them down as easily so they may need clipping – ask your vet or vet nurse to do this.

There’s some evidence that a daily supplement of glucosamine and chondroitin can help ease arthritis in animals such as cats and dogs so if you think yours could benefit, talk to your vet.

Toileting problems
Get to know what’s normal for your cat so that you tell if she’s going to the loo more often, is constipated or might have an infection. Older cats are more prone to urinary infections, such as cystitis.

Drinking more water can be a sign of cystitis and urinating more often can also be a sign of diabetes although it can also indicate other problems such as kidney disease. Spraying in the home is different to an accident caused by a weak bladder and is a deliberate behaviour from a cat that feels frightened or insecure for some reason, requiring long-term behavioural training to sort it out.

Some owners find it helpful to provide a litter tray indoors for older cats, especially if they’re less fond of going out than they used to be but make sure it’s easy to get in and out!

Kidney disease
The most common disease in cats over 10 years old, symptoms include an increased thirst (also an indicator of diabetes, another ‘old age’ complaint). If kidney disease is suspected, your vet can carry out a blood test to confirm a diagnosis and treatment usually involves putting the cat on a special low-sodium diet to take the strain off his kidneys. Medication must be carefully monitored in cats with kidney disease as it’s the kidneys that have the job of breaking down and eliminating drugs from the body so that they don’t reach dangerous levels in the bloodstream. Loss of appetite can be a problem but talk to your vet if this occurs as there are appetite stimulants and something as simple as hand-feeding may help.

Loss of vision
If your cat starts bumping into things or misjudging distances when leaping, she may be losing sight in one or both of her eyes, only rarely caused by cataract and more commonly as a result of trauma or high blood pressure that causes the retinas to detach. Most vets can treat common eye problems but will refer you to a specialist if needed as they have more advanced ophthalmic equipment and diagnostic techniques.

Cats adapt quickly to loss of senses by overcompensating in other areas so, for example, her sense of smell may become even more acute than it is already and her whiskers will help her ‘feel’ her way around unfamiliar places or objects. You’ll need to think carefully about letting out your cat if her sight is going, as she may be safer living indoors now and going out into the garden on a harness and lead. In any case, make sure she is microchipped and wearing an easy-release collar with her name and address on it and buy her some ‘noisy’ toys such as jingle balls to compensate for her deteriorating sight.

Deafness
If your cat is easily spooked, it may be that she can’t hear you coming due to her hearing worsening, although going completely deaf is uncommon in cats. If you think your cat’s hearing is worsening, find ways to help her compensate, for example, by flashing a torch at night so she sees the signal for coming in, rather than trying to hear you calling. You may also want to consider keeping her indoors as the inability to hear approaching traffic is a serious hazard for cats.

Vet checklist
• Get to know your cat’s normal routine and behaviour so you’ll know if something is wrong and can respond quickly.
• Make allowances for your older cat by adapting her routine eg moving her bed somewhere warm and quiet, using a litter tray, giving moist food because old cats drink less etc.
• Keep up your cat’s prevention programme to avoid unnecessary health problems.
• Check your cat over regularly so that you catch problems such as lumps and bumps early on.

Preparation is the key to a less stressful move for you and your feline…

Think ahead
It’s vital to check that you cat can come with you before you make any final decision to move. Flats and maisonettes are more likely to have restrictions on the leasehold or rental conditions not allowing pets so check the small print carefully.

Once the move has been confirmed, consider temporary boarding with a friend who has or likes cats or in a nearby cattery for a couple of days during the move.
Moving day plan

The actual moving day is the most difficult for a cat as boxes and furniture are being moved all around him and he has a permanent escape route… the open front door!

1 Clear a small room in your house around a week in advance and move your cat’s bed in there, along with the scratching post, toys etc.

2 Over the next week, get your cat to sleep and eat in there so he is happy to be kept in there on the moving day.

3 On the day of the move, put him or her in there with plenty of clean water and food, and a clean litter tray, away from all the chaos. Wait for a lull in the removals to check on the cat during the day.

4 Have the travelling basket or cage ready, away from all the items being packed for removal.

5 A temporary quick-release collar showing the old and the new address is a good idea in case he or she does become lost.

6 Only offer a light meal, especially if you have a long journey to undertake.

7 Before you leave your old house, make sure the cat flap is firmly locked to avoid any neighbourhood cats getting in and becoming trapped.
‘Settling in’ plan

Cats require lots of time to adjust to their new surroundings so do things gradually.

1 As before, set aside a small room to become your cat’s temporary haven while all the unpacking takes place.

2 Keep the cat in the room for a couple of days or at least until the removal men have gone. When you let him or her out, make sure all windows and doors are shut.

3 Most cats need to be kept in for a minimum of two weeks, some longer, before venturing outside. Watch your cat’s behaviour to see if he or she is becoming bolder about the new surroundings.

4 Carry your cat outside to start off with, then gradually give him more freedom but don’t let him out of your sight until you are sure he can find his own way back.

5 In the early days, letting him out just before mealtimes as fresh food will entice him or her back in.

Latest from the Buddies Pet Insurance news team…Dressing dogs for fashion rather than choice is getting somewhat out of hand. The Daily Telegraph ran pages of photographs depicting how fashion designers are putting their pooches through the embarrassment of being dressed up in a variety of outfits – everything from muscle vests to ruffles. Pug to bulldog, Rhodesian Ridgeback to Labrador, these animals are the victims of their owners’ quirky fashion designs. Most claim their animals are not spoilt, although this is hard to substantiate when readers are treated to an array of happy owners with rather miserable looking dogs dressed in outfits that frankly make them look quite ridiculous. One question asked of the owners was the breed of their particular choice and just one failed to know the exact answer – when they took him to dog training class everyone laughed at being told he was a Jack Russell. Subsequently they discovered he was bred by gypsies and they are still researching what he is. All good fun really, at least for the fashion designers. The complete photo session with names of the designers and a piece about their clothes – plus photographs of the dressed-up dogs -  is in the Telegraph Magazine of 21 June.

Here’s how to help your cat still feel part of the family when your new baby arrives.

In the home
• Keep your cat in good condition, including regular worming, flea control and booster vaccinations.
• Pay strict attention to hygiene, especially when preparing food and teach your cat to stay off kitchen surfaces.
• If pregnant, follow your GP/midwife’s advice about hygiene and toxoplasmosis avoidance carefully.

Before the baby arrives
• Several months in advance, start the new routine that you want to follow with your cat eg not allowed upstairs any more
• Let your cat see and sniff new nursery kit but show him that he’s not allowed to jump inside the cot/Moses basket.
• Get up to date with his vaccinations, flea and worming treatments as you won’t have time immediately after the baby is born.
• If your cat hasn’t been neutered, do it now as cats that wander and fight with others over territory are more likely to bring disease home with them.
• Start reducing the amount of time you fuss your cat and he sits on your lap so that he gets used to it and doesn’t see it as a direct result of the baby arriving.
• Try to train your cat to eat his food when you put it down, rather than leaving it down as you won’t want cat food on the floor once your toddler is crawling or walking. It may mean taking food away a few times but he’ll soon get used to coming when it is mealtime, rather than eating when he pleases. Otherwise, start putting your cat’s food on a surface where your child won’t have access and is away from food preparation areas.

Around children
• Never leave your baby, toddler or child alone with kittens or cats, even ones you’ve had for years.
• Encourage cat-loving visitors to acknowledge the cat, not just the baby and try to still fuss your cat a little, even just for a few minutes each day.
• Keep the nursery door closed and make sure the cat can’t get through an open window either. And always check the cat hasn’t sneaked into the room before closing the door. Use a monitor to listen out for your baby.
• Teach your toddler/children to treat the cat with love, respect and gentleness.
• Provide safe spaces for your kitten or cat to seek refuge from an annoying toddler.
• Keep food dishes, water bowls and the litter tray well out of reach of your baby or toddler and try to clean up baby milk and baby food mess quickly so that your cat isn’t tempted to tuck in.
• If your kitten or cat scratches your child, don’t punish her as she simply won’t understand. Make sure your child doesn’t retaliate and remove the kitten to a quiet area to calm down.
• Spend time letting your children and kitten get to know each other gradually, in a situation where they both feel safe.
• Let your child or children feed the cat regularly.
• Show your children and the kitten that they each have a unique place in your affections and need not be jealous of each other.